Worldwide Beekeeping Resource Library > GETTING STARTED
Fall Management
tedh:
I was concerned at first if a bottom and top entrance would be enough. I'd read that some place shims to raise the cover for ventilation. So, three and a half inch opening for the top entrance? Mines only about an inch and a half. Should I change that? Also, I have some half inch hardware cloth, should I put that on the entrance now? I thought it would be later, maybe October. Though, we have had a cold snap recently. Hmmmm. Ted
riverbee:
i don't use shims, just the widest opening on the er or left off, and the extra long notch i cut out on my inner covers. it works for me. i don't have problems as others do with ants and shb, so these work for me year round. whether to change it? hard to say ted, maybe try one that way and see what you think? 1/2" hc should be fine, that's what i use, although some beeks say a mouse can squeeze through this. i haven't experienced that with 1/2". the commercial guards, the metal ones with i think 3/8' circular openings are nice, but what i found with these, if put on to early in the season, the bees will often lose pollen loads that are scraped off as they are going in. when to put them on? look for mouse turds in the front of the hive, on the landing board in front of the e/r. not always true, (i get them through summer months) but a good sign. you can put the hc on now if you are concerned. when the mice decided to move into and nest in my 4 wheeler several weeks back and mess up the electronics and the clutch, to the tune of 200 bucks, the hardware cloth went on the hive...... ;D
riverbee:
wanted to bump this thread up a little for those who are looking for any info on fall management/wintering for your bees.
Jen:
Fall Management :) Thanks Riv, printed it off. Get the men off to bed, then curl up by the fire and read a bit ;)
LazyBkpr:
Many folks, Robo included swear no upper ventilation is needed as long as the top is well insulated..
They could well be right. I use what I know works, and has worked in my area/climate for a very long time.. That is reducing the lower entrance to 3/8 by 3 inches and using a small upper entrance, 1 inch to 1.5 inches wide by 3/8 inch tall..
I happen to agree with Robo and many others that the upper entrance allows the heat to escape!!
However, in the research I have done, what I see says it does not matter.. the heat from the cluster seldom makes a tenth of a degree difference at the wall of the hive. Tar paper around the hive made a greater temp difference inside to outside than the cluster of bees did. They heat the cluster, and rotate in and out of that cluster to maintain their own heat. Movement keeps them alive, which is also why I like using mediums AND foundation-less frames where they often have travel holes... but thats getting off target...
The upper entrance DOES allow heat to escape, but in the process it takes moisture with it.. My preference is to get that extra moisture gone.. Though I do believe that next winter I am going to try three or four hives following Robo's advice and see how it turns out here on the plains.
http://outyard.weebly.com/wintering.html
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