Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints => Topic started by: 40 Acre Bees on April 09, 2016, 06:49:51 pm
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So it has started I have the fever and want to make my own wooden ware. When woodworking I am one that needs a set of plans to work with. When surfing the net I have found a number of different plans but there seems to be a difference in measurements between the different plans I found. Where can I find a good set of Langstroth plans using 1" wood (3/4" dressed) with the correct measurements. Thanks in advance. :yes:
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http://www.beesource.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/10frlang.pdf
http://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/
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Some of the variation in plan dimensions is due to the specs of lumber has changes. in the 1950's the standard for the board thickness went from 7/8" to 3/4" and the width went from 9 5/8" to under 9 1/2" This made the need to buy 12" boards to cut them down to the 9 5/8" width. The frames have stayed the same since langstroth patented them in 1852. When the lumber was made narrower the inside size of the box stayed the same size to keep the bee space but the super outside size became 1/4" smaller. Some manufactures get lumber custom milled to the 7/8" thickness thus keeping with the original size.
attacher is a pdf from the BC Gov for using 3/4" lumber.
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Almost everything you buy will use 7/8" lumber, so I have avoided the 3/4" simply to keep things uniform. When you set a box made of 3/4" on a box of 7/8", it provides a shelf for water to set.
I also find the extra thickness helps, even if just a bit, to the depth I can cut my hand holds.
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As Perry said about hand hold depth. It is not so much the depth, but the amount of material left in the bottom of the hand hold. If you have woodpeckers they will quickly make feeding holes in the thin parts of the hand holds. The top rabbet is stronger as the depth od the frame rabbet is still only 3/8 leaving 1/2" of wood on the top ends.
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I would think that northerners would prefer 7/8 thickness for the added insulation provided.
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Wood is a very poor insulator less than R1 per inch. the extra 1/8" makes little difference.
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Does anyone have a complete set of plans using 7/8 lumber, I may have a source for some. Thanks
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I just go with 20 x 16 3/4 exterior dimension on everything and it seems to work out fine for me.
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For 3/4 inch wood thickness here are the Langstroth deminsions for a 10 frame hive box.
(Watch the thickness of the boards, depending on where they are milled some can be 13/16 inch thick instead of 3/4 inch thick. It will make a difference making box joints.)
For box joints cut your long boards 19 7/8 inch long and 9 5/8 inch wide. (use 3/4 inch dado cuts.)
The short boards are 16 3/4 inches long by 9 5/8 inches deep.
When using Rabbet Joints cut the long boards 19 1/8 inches long by 9 5/8 inches wide.
Cut the Rabbet Joints 3/4 inches wide by 3/8 inch deep in each end of the short board.
When you insert the long board into the rabbet joint the box will be 19 7/8 inches long.
Just adjust the width of the board for the different boxes.
9 5/8 inch for Deep Boxes
6 5/8 inch for Medium Supers
5 11/16 inch for shallow boxes.
8 frame hive widths are not standard.
Some parts of the country use 14 inches wide and some use 13 3/4 inches wide.
The lengths are 19 7/8 inches long for all Langstroth hives.
When cutting the frame rest just adjust the saw fence to make a dado cut 5/8 inch wide and 3/8 inch deep.
Works perfect.
Hope this helps.
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I built all my hives using varrious plans from different places that used the langstroth standards. During my searching I stumbled on this guy. He has all the components of the hive with detailed pdf plans that are very simple to follow. It is what I use as reference plans. He also has detailed videos on youtube for each component. Its worth checking out if you want some good plans.
http://www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
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Thanks, I just bookmarked it. :)
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Capt, thanks for the measurements. That was the most simple explanation I have seen yet. :yes:
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Excellent - Thank you :yes: