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Beekeeping 101 / Re: Treatment bees or Treatment free ?
« Last post by Lburou on Today at 05:56:34 PM »
...Oxalic acid vaporization works well but rotate with other treatments...
Chip, what does the Scientist within you say about the new OA application method in development with glycerin that is left in the hive for weeks?
Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints / Re: Painting hive components
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 05:39:52 PM »
nice pix wm!

ted, i really don't think it matters.......gotta love barn red, maybe lighten a bit with the white. it has been traditional for all to paint deep hive bodies in white or pastel colors, especially for those in southern climates so that the heat i guess is reflected, keeping the colony cooler. darker colors would be advantageous for us northerners in winter months, absorbing and retaining heat longer.

i typically use lighter colors just cuz that's what i was taught to do, ya know eons of older beeks. some of these older beeks about flipped or laughed at some of the colors of my oops painted medium boxes..... with that said, one or two years or more i had to scramble for deeps and used old deeps that had been painted a very dark purplish blue color. (i use these boxes for fall feeding with pails on).  my hives are not in full sun, but can say i really didn't notice any problems associated with overheating.  also, trees aren't exactly white, or wherever bees decide to swarm to in houses, and some areas, pretty hot.  bees can do a pretty good job at heating and cooling their environment.

if you are concerned about it use the white and mix in the barn red til you get a lighter color? or maybe just use the barn red for medium boxes?
mine are all sorts of different colors.

perhaps keith will chime in, the guy is an encyclopedia on keeping bees!
Swarms, Cut Outs, Trap Outs and Bee Trees / Re: How to do a trap out
« Last post by apisbees on Today at 05:03:45 PM »
The links and location where there, they just needed to be modified to conform to this new hosting site. Now if someone is paying for photo bucket and willing to copy and download the missing photos, those threads could be restored.
Any and Every Thing / Re: Thanks to all that helped with this gift
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 05:02:53 PM »

SIMPLY AWESOME GIFT!!!  LOVE IT!  thanks for posting the pix!
i think i might have to be a copy cat!,  this is really, really cool!  like apis said, might have to do something like this for a display at craft fairs in the fall months!

"I just need to bookmark this page encase I someday need a phone number."

............... :D :D :laugh:
too funny keith, me too!....... :D
Beekeeping 101 / Re: Treatment bees or Treatment free ?
« Last post by Chip Euliss on Today at 04:22:38 PM »
Check your mite loads and treat when you have too many.  For me, I like to see infestation rates less than 5%.  Oxalic acid vaporization works well but rotate with other treatments.  I've been using formic (MAQS) in spring and oxalic in late summer/fall and it's working well so far.  Mites get all bees and mites carry diseases.  In summer when the bees are going gangbusters, there are lots of drones that mites prefer but that all changes come fall.  I'm convinced that if you focus on keeping your bees well nourished and as free of mites as possible, you'll do well.
Honey, Bee Forage; Nectar & Pollen Sources / Re: Pollen Color Chart
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 04:18:04 PM »
Honey, Bee Forage; Nectar & Pollen Sources

many are pinned at the top of the board jen......... 8)

also, i am moving your thread there too............... :D
Beekeeping 101 / Re: Minnesota Hygienic
« Last post by Chip Euliss on Today at 04:16:31 PM »
I kept MN Hygenics for many years and switched to VSH (poline; also terrific bees) and a few other hygienic lines/races only because it was difficult getting queens shipped to me in spring.  I was happy with their performance.  Never had an issue with honey production or with propolis.  Although propolis creates more work for you, it has demonstrated benefits on the health of honey bees.  My memory may be poor but my recollection is that propolis stimulates their immune system.  I believe the study I recall was Marla Spivak's and she actually stapled propolis traps to the inside of the test hives to maximize propolis deposition--hives with less propolis had higher mortality, etc.  They sell propolis in health food stores for humans so the health benefits to bees didn't come as a great surprise, to me at least.  A fairly clean study as I recall.  I tend to view things differently from most folks (probably because I was a scientist before I retired so I naturally question the norm) but I've never faulted Italians for laying brood late in the season because that also means you have more "winter bees" to kick start things the next fall.  Evolution would have certainly weeded that trait out in most areas of the globe but winter bees are the guys that get the hive going the next spring so if you can keep enough food in the hive for to last the winter, it can be a huge benefit too.  You'll see massive numbers of dead bees in front of a MN Hygenic hive (and Italians in general) in fall but that's the field force dying off and it's perfectly natural.  Winter bees don't fly till springand they can live up to 6 months versus a 45 day life span for a summer bee; the difference is mostly in their diet which changes as soon as the bees start foraging flights.  Winter bees fly in spring and when they switch diets, it starts their timeclock (death clock?) ticking.  I've been sending bees to California for almond production for many years so winter bees means a stronger work force (and a fatter economic return for me since I'm paid based on how many bees are in my hives) when they go in almonds.  That said, I almost always winter some in North Dakota that don't fit on the truck and MN Hygenics winter just fine in North Dakota as long as you manage them correctly.  You just have to accept that there are more bees in the hive and feed them until they get heavy enough to make it to spring.  It is true that they eat a lot more (especially before the large field force dies off) and can starve if not properly fed and conditioned for winter but supplemental feed is cheap in comparison to the value of the hive.  Other races/lines that can quickly ramp up (and down) brood production (carnis, buckfast etc) based on availability of food resources coming into the hive tend to self "manage" or regulate their populations so their keeper doesn't have to keep such a close watch on them but watching and taking care of bees is what we do!  Even running mostly Italian lines, I still feed heavily in January to stimulate early brood production because before the almonds bloom, there are essentially no other flowers available to get the bees to ramp up brood production.  Thus, my objective when I feed in January is to "trick" the bees into thinking spring has arrived so they start rearing brood like crazy.  MN hygenics do get mites (as do all races/lines) and even though they have innate characteristics to break the reproductive cycle of the mites, that doesn't mean you don't have to worry about mites or treat for them.  Always check your loads and treat if needed, especially during critical periods like winter when mites only have workers (and the queen) to parasitize.  I've switched to a mite control regime of maximum strength formic acid (MAQS) treatment in spring and oxalic acid vaporization in late summer/fall and my mite loads have never been lower.  I vaporize as soon as the honey supers are pulled and when all the bees are staged for shipping, I vaporize them every 5 days for 5 iterations (to cover an entire brood cycle plus a little).  I also vaporize them in California in January when we go out and prepare them for almond pollination.  It's inexpensive and the vaporizer I use takes 12 seconds or so to treat a hive so why not?

All of this probably didn't help much but hopefully will help you put things into perspective as you decide what lines/races of bees will work best for you.  All have their strengths and all have their weaknesses and you'll find advocates for nearly every line or race of bee available today.  Understanding the unique traits of the bees you are using will help you tailor a management regime that complements the characteristics of your bees, plus it will make you a better beekeeper.  Good Luck!
General Beekeeping / Re: Bee genetics
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 04:13:10 PM »
great thread omni, i have pinned this as a topic sticky, some great questions and great information.

also please post back about what you decide to do, and update with any progress!
Laugh A Little / Re: entrepreneurial spirit!
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 03:48:37 PM »
.............. :D :D :laugh:

too funny neil!
Swarms, Cut Outs, Trap Outs and Bee Trees / Re: How to do a trap out
« Last post by riverbee on Today at 03:18:33 PM »
thank you apis, i copied, pasted the new updated links to iddee's first post.

thanks for taking the time to hunt the threads down and update the links!
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