Camcote

[Finally Home]

Good to know.  thanks

[LazyBkpr]

oooh, Yeah, Thanks Apis, I hadnt even considered that!!!

[apisbees]

I was hoping i wasn't to late in posting and you had already done it. wax and paint dont play well together.

[Finally Home]

Well I just gave it a good sanding with steel wool. 
Got 2 coats on it.  Worked really well.  No real odor and still have a lil over half a can left.  Looks real good. 

[keeperofthebees]

LOL  I've always thought pouring a concrete block around an extractor would be the only thing that could make it sturdy and stable..  I'd have done it too, I just cant figure out how to replace the lower bearing and seal...

You need a carpenters level, 50 fender washers, and no cement anchors(use 6" eye bolts).  Rough drill a 2" x 2" hole into the concrete maybe a fingers depth down, and buy yourself a little sack(2 lbs maybe???) of anchoring cement.  The eyebolts won't turn out on you, because the anchor cement gets between the eye!!!  Use stainless eyebolts!!! 

I kept shaking out/pulling those worthless expanding/hammer in cement anchors.  I got mad with a mini sledge, and a star drill(4" deep concrete under where a heavy milk cooler stood).  I had chiseled the concrete in 3 places with rectangular slats.  It was fun lol

Note to user:  With 30 + frame extractors use grade 8 eye bolts, grade 5 works.  High stress point/base mount/extractor hold down insurance policy beekeeper tested, wrecklessly proven.

[apisbees]

You will need to put the extractor up on a stand unless you have a sump pit O didn't want to drill holes in the concrete floor so I guilt a raised platform for the extractor. High enough so the discharge would go in to my double boiler multi use heat tank from there I can pump it in thru my strainer bucket into pails Bottling tank of drums. The box has 3 eyes and I have 3 long rod turnbuckles that hook over the top edge of the extractor and down to the bottom box eye bolts.
Extractor on box stand one of the turnbuckles is laying on the left side of the extractor. and 2 of the eyes are visible. The extractor is undone so blocks could be placed under so as to let the last of the honey drain out and to take it out side to wash it out.


Honey gate at the end of the extractor discharge pipe entering the double boiler multi use heat tank. This is my one tank does everything tank, honey sump, 5 gallon pail honey liquifying tank, wax melter with screw press for pressing slum-gum, candle dipping and or wax poring tank. along with my hot water tank drain hot water from the double jacket and add more cold. It has 2 outlets one off the bottom and another 2" up the side.


The honey pump is hooked up to the bottom drain and is pumped into the strainer pail and then falls into the pail for bulk storage.


This is just the way i do it as I only us it a couple of days a year. I don't have floor drains or running hot and cold water near the extractor I just run a hose to the sump to fill it and supply hot and cold water.

[LazyBkpr]

I like the set up Apis!   I also like the bracket/mount for your electric motor on that extractor.  Hadn't occurred to me to put it ABOVE, and that will certainly save some space.

[apisbees]

It also doesn't block of any area of the extractor lid and allows for easier access when cleaning. the guy I bought it off of had the motor bolted to the stand floor and used a very long belt. These extractors were built at a time when most shops used a single power shaft down the middle of the shop and every thing was powered from it by belts.

[CpnObvious]

I just bought an old 4-frame galvanized extractor last night.  Probably overpaid, but I let the excitement of it get the better of me.  So it now appears as though I'll be having to paint it (can't take a loss on it, so may as well invest more?).  What I haven't seen in any of these posts is anything about etching primer.  On other sites I've read that it's a must.  I can sandblast it, belt-sand it, whatever... but will it "bee" enough?  What would it look like after sand-blasting or sanding?  Unless I've missed something, I don't see any re-finished ones pictured here.  Could some of you please post images of your re-coated extractors and the specific process you used and how well it appears to be holding up, and how long/how much use it's had?  Have any of you seen the need for an etching primer if sanding or sandblasting is done?  Thank you for all your help and advice.

[blueblood]

Welcome Captain,  like the name by the way.  Personally, I was lucky enough to procure a stainless but I am sure someone will have the right answer or direction.  Welcome to the forum!  And, you may consider heading over to the welcome page and introducing yourself.   

[Perry]

I just bought an old 4-frame galvanized extractor last night.  Probably overpaid, but I let the excitement of it get the better of me.  So it now appears as though I'll be having to paint it (can't take a loss on it, so may as well invest more?).  What I haven't seen in any of these posts is anything about etching primer.  On other sites I've read that it's a must.  I can sandblast it, belt-sand it, whatever... but will it "bee" enough?  What would it look like after sand-blasting or sanding?  Unless I've missed something, I don't see any re-finished ones pictured here.  Could some of you please post images of your re-coated extractors and the specific process you used and how well it appears to be holding up, and how long/how much use it's had?  Have any of you seen the need for an etching primer if sanding or sandblasting is done?  Thank you for all your help and advice.

First things first......
Like Blueblood, I would like to extend a warm welcome to our "family" here. 

I am trying to locate some pictures of one that has been done and as soon as I do I'll post them. It may take me a bit to locate them on my computer. I remember being impressed by it, it did a nice job.

[brooksbeefarm]

I have one similar to that, it's a hand crank that i got from Sears & Roebuck in the mid 60's the same time i ordered my Midnight Bees . I bought a can of camcote several years later and it's still in the can somewhere around here?? I bought a stainless steel two frame extractor and put the galvanized one up over the shop, haven't thought about it till this post?? We used it for years with no problems? does the galvanize flak off or what's the problem? i also have a galvanized Sorghum separator in the barn that's had tons of sorghum syrup produced and ate from it. I know the old extractor is a two frame but don't remember if it's a reversible or not? I bilt a wood stand for it (it's still on it, i think?) and our 2 children would argue who's turn it was to turn it  . Now i'm going to have to clime up there and look it over. Jack

[CpnObvious]

@BrooksBeeFarm - Actually this is in pretty nice shape, especially for it's age.  The problem is the modern-day safety concern about galvanized items making contact with food.  The CamCote is simply to seal the lead & zinc away from the honey...  Allowing it to be considered food-grade.  I would definitely be very interested in knowing the specific process everyone has used to refinish their and how it looked afterward.

[apisbees]

It is the acids in the honey that interacts with the galvanized coating which causes the safety concerns. Honey that stays in contact with galvanized for an extended period of time will take on a metallic taste. Also Most of the old galvanized extractors had the joints soldered together. The solder used was a 50/50 Tin/Lead mix, the lead causing a definite health safety issue when it comes to food contact.

[brooksbeefarm]

My old buddy that passed away just sprayed his on with a spray gun,it just looked like a film of pastic on the inside.Jack