2 hives what to do?

[vvand111]

Hive 1  Waynes Bees: 2 deeps 10 frame and late summer 1 medium 10 frame.  Earlier I panicked because on inspection bottom box was full of brood, larva and honey. 2ed deep was full of brood larva and honey.  Not but 2 frames of honey in either one.  I added a medium super thinking they would build it out and if needed put honey and or if needed for more brood. 2 additional inspections show the same result. Very little going on in top medium.  I feel I should have been feeding more but I did not.

Hive 2  nuc bees from local: 2 deeps. all 10 frame. as healthy as hive 1. Not as many bees but great laying pattern in lower box. 2ed box has 5 full and 2 half full of capped honey. 2 of the other frames have 40% capped brood and larva and honey. The last frame is just being built out.

Today I put a top feeder on # 2 and tomorrow I will be putting a top feeder on # 1. I plan on feeding each heavily for the next 4 weeks.

Thought??  Should I consider putting 2 frames of brood from #1 into #2 and put 2 frames of honey from # 2 into #1 to attempt a balance going into the last month before winter??

I decided it is best to ask before going any further.
Thanks, Vandy

[iddee]

I would keep the feed to them, and wait 30 days before balancing. See what they look like then.

[riverbee]

vandy,
here are my thoughts.....bees in spring and summer months are all about brood rearing if enough nectar and pollen is coming in.  the more pollen the more brood rearing. they really don't fill up the 2nd deep full of honey until late summer, or fall months.  bees know they need to start packing that second deep for upcoming winter months.  bee's only utilize, draw comb and fill until they need it. sometimes we need to give bees a boost to draw comb (feeding syrup).  with nucs/packages i always feed to give them a head start or a little assistance; bees don't have the foraging force built up yet.  what does this affect? brood rearing, comb drawing, honey collection, so what you typically see in a hive is commensurate to the strength of the colony and also dependent on nectar and pollen sources.  also, if nectar and pollen sources are on the short side, we may have to feed either one or both to help them buildup, survive in droughts, or get them ready for winter months. 

also, first year packages, nucs and hives need a little more attention.

sounds like you are doing great.  i normally don't equalize in fall months..........i equalize in spring months, BUT i will combine weak hives in late summer and early fall (failing queens and no replacement possible) with other hives.  it typically works.

like iddee said, i would agree, keep feed on.

good luck and keep us posted!

[vvand111]

Thanks to both of you for the response.

 I made up about 10 gallons of sugar syrup last night and will put top feeder on #1 today.

 On # 2 hive, (already with top feeder), I have my inner cover below the top feeder. This leaves the top entrance below the feeder and the bees can come up through the inner top cover  to get to the top feeder.  Is this the correct way to configure??

  The top feeders were purchased from Beez Needs last week.  They are like a mini super with screened area for bees to get to the syrup.

[iddee]

I see no reason why that wouldn't work, but I take the inner cover into the barn and don't use a top entrance when feeding. There are many correct ways to keep bees. If it works for you, it's the right way.

[riverbee]

vandy, it's not 'what's correct'.........it's what works for you ! 

[vvand111]

I am going to leave the inner cover on # 2 hive and I will remove the Inner cover on # 1 hive.  I will pay close attention over the next week or so and report back. 

Thanks for the feed back from you folks.