Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints => Topic started by: Perry on January 16, 2014, 10:42:11 am
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With all respect and credit to D. Coates who came up with this simple plan to make 4 five frame nuc boxes out of a single sheet of plywood, using only straight cuts, no dado's or rabbets anywhere.
Sorry I don't have a bunch of pictures showing the step by step, next time I make more I will take pics.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi664.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv1%2FPerryBee%2F03b35dfe-fa53-4bcf-92e1-e0c7669b6a48_zps64756955.jpg&hash=e059e241cad90914202ab3b46a6ac2512cba1c49) (http://s664.photobucket.com/user/PerryBee/media/03b35dfe-fa53-4bcf-92e1-e0c7669b6a48_zps64756955.jpg.html)
Get your sheet of 1/2" plywood and make your four long cuts first, and them make your cross cuts to create the pieces you will need. There is very little waste.
I use a quality wood glue and 1 1/4" x 1/4"crown staples to put it all together.
The end results are great! I will add step by step pics as I find them.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi664.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv1%2FPerryBee%2FBobbysvisitandswarmcatchs029.jpg&hash=9e15a9716853ec0fb4f09d13dd0b3a8b1d6e3daf) (http://s664.photobucket.com/user/PerryBee/media/Bobbysvisitandswarmcatchs029.jpg.html)
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Those are nice looking nucs buddy, i'm still buying 3/4 and 7/8 plywood in 4x4 ft. squares for $5.00 ea. with laminate on one side, i'm going to make some nucs out of some of them and bottom boards and migratory lids. My big concern is how are they going to weather? is a coat of primer and a coat of good paint enough? Jack
PS. the edges that are exposed is the big worry, if water gets in there? enough said.
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I have detailed plans for 5-frame deep and 8-frame medium Coates nucs here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/
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I have a bunch of these. Make excellent boxes to take for catching swarms. Light enough to take up on a ladder and you avoid having to transfer them. Drop some frames in and let them have at it for a few weeks then put in a full size box. I have my swarm catching lid with a big hole in it and a screen stapled in place so they don't overheat in the car on the way home.
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Good to sit on too when working on a hive at the end of a long day. ;)
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Also help in leveling a ladder on stairs when painting a stair well. :o
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Whipped out 8 of these this afternoon. Started painting. Still have to put the lips on the lids. Was a pleasure ripping the plywood on the Radial Arm Saw. Did a nice job.
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Does anybody have plans already on paper for a 8-frame version of Coates? It would be nice to have one for larger swarm calls. I can sit down and figure it out but didn't want to re-invent the wheel.
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Dave you read my mind.
Looking for the same thing myself.
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Great minds think alike G! 8) Anyway, I think they would also be good for swarm traps. I guess I will start measuring and packing in as many parts in one sheet of wood as I can. Whoever gets around to doing it first could start a fresh thread for it.
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Yep swarm traps is what I was thinking of also.
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Ask and ye shall receive. I triple-checked Rob's downloads website and came up blank for me too. Rob did the hard work, I just modified the dimensions. Not much more internal volume than a 5-frame deep and only slightly more comb area. The lids on these warp worse than the 5-frame and aren't as easy to flex back flat.
http://hoibees.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Coates8FrameMediumNucPlans.pdf
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Thanks DLMKA! I started a new thread the 8-frame also: http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php/topic,964.0/topicseen.html (http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php/topic,964.0/topicseen.html)
Have you thought of anything that could be modified to avoid the warping? Different material, supporting strips/rails of wood along the two long sides of the lid, etc.?
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Dave, that's what i do,i use cca 2x4's and rip them 1"1/2" for both long sides and screw them on from the bottom.I run the strips edge wise ,like the 2x4 was standing on edge (the 1 1/2 end) i think it's stronger that way. Been doing it for 3 yrs. now and no warping yet. Jack
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Is that on the tops you do this for?
Jack when you going to post some pics?
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Now our brain cylinders are moving in sync. Thanks Jack, and yes, pics would be great~
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Yes, i run them on top and on the long sides,i also run a bead of silicone on the bottom of them. Jack
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(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2F81vl4fzl5%2FDSCN0050.jpg&hash=9cedb6c454ff068a2dade620bb7e84957add7130) (http://postimg.cc/image/81vl4fzl5/)
Mine are 8 frame Mediums, but I use 1x8's for the sides without cutting them down to 6 5/8. Nail/ glue the bottoms and use deck screws in the top to keep it flat. Plywood top and bottom. Work pretty slick, looking forward to getting VIDS this year!!
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Sorry, haven't been able to to get together with my computer mentors (to show me how to post pictures) with all the high school ball games (our grandchildren) and keeping livestock alive. Got another bad ice and snow storm coming in this weekend. :o Jack
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I spent the better half of the afternoon whipping up a prototype for this 5-frame nuc with 3/4" pine boards. I didn't have any 1"-12" lumber. So, I busted out the Kreg pocket hole jig and laminated some board to the widths I needed. I will modify the lid on the next one to attach the lid end on the bottom of the lid like you would see on the plywood version. I have found that the best way to position/fix the ends on bottom of the lid is to place is to attach all four side of box, place the lid upside down on work space and then the box on top. I then affix the ends to the lid aligning them ever so slightly away from the box end to allow for some expansion (maybe 1/32") but remain snug enough also.
I basically completed the box minus aluminum flashing on the lid and painting it. Next, I brought it in and remeasured it to better allow for frame placement including bee space at the bottom of the frames. I drew simple sketches of the parts along with the measurements.
Jury is out on this one. It was awkward compared to the more flexible plywood and loses it affordable margin. You really need a 1"x12"-10ft board to complete one box. You will have a little scrap left over. As of 3/5/2014, the board is $19.46 at Home Depot and $14.69 (on sale) at Menards for #2 pine or white board. The 1/2" (15/32) plywood is still around the $16 range and you can get four nice nucs out it.
I placed a thin coat of Titebond glue on the exposed plywood grain last season before painting and let it dry overnight to assist in keeping the water out of the end grain. I have used the boxes for swarm catching but plan on using them for splits and wintering over this season. If the plywood nucs decay, I will just build more.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2F3v2h0ete1%2FDSCF9955.jpg&hash=ab645a773b9c7a0711c222635c680e5eb42fcc49) (http://postimg.cc/image/3v2h0ete1/)
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Buying 1 x 12's would make that difficult to justify, though one of the club members uses 1 x 10 stock and just makes a taller ridge around the bottom board to set the 9.5 inch box on.. Another good reason for me to stick with all mediums. Making Nuc's is cheaper :)
the 1x8x12's cost less than six dollars at Menards. Not sure what the 1x10's are.
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OHHHHHH, I missed that you were making mediums...that makes sense. I was thinking, how the heck is he doing it with 8" boards! Ha!
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I bet you could drop that thing and not put a dent in it though. Solid.
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I bet your right Perry. But, don't you thinks these would have better insulation for wintering over than the plywood nucs? I may use something like these to winter over.
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agree with Perry. Paint that and it will look sharp as well.
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I bet your right Perry. But, don't you thinks these would have better insulation for wintering over than the plywood nucs? I may use something like these to winter over.
I guess they might if you were to leave them as stand alone nucs. I have put mine altogether and insulated around the whole group, leaving the front exposed but tar paper covering the fronts. I don't know that the added thickness of the wood provides much help in that situation..
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I feel like I have became one with the wood dust today. Spent the better part of the day cutting and assembling eight 5-frame nucs. I have to paint and attach the flashing on the lids. That should be it for nucs this season. That puts me at 15 or so. It is finally starting to warm up and blueblood's workshop is coming alive!
I am finished with fighting long boards when I need to cut sections for nucs or hive bodies. It's dangerous to push long boards across the table saw perpendicular to the blade and the skill saw is not accurate. It is time to start looking for a bench top miter pull saw. I tried to push one strip of plywood across the table saw today to cut the sides on the nucs when F L I N G, Z I P, B A M! The section kicked back and flung nearly 18 feet and slammed into the door that enters the main part of the house. My wife opened the door and said, Dave are you okay, all the magnets on the other side of the door flew off! Ha, I was lucky that didn't hit me in the you know what or the neck or head. OUCH!
If you notice the shoes on my workbench, those are on work order from my daughters who believe I am also the family cobbler.
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Nice to be prepared instead of running around isn't it? Your plywood looks like a lot better grade than the stuff we get up here.
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Way better wood than I got at Menard's here. All kinds of gaps in it.
Nice work Sir 8)
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You bet, I want to have enough equipment to gather all I can. That particular ply was the better grade at $16 and some change. The grade below it was a couple dollars cheaper but had several knots and open lines. I picked through and found the best of the best that I could. The cleats and lid ends are 3/4" pine. I failed to increase the lid length to accommodate the larger clean. Have to remember that for next time.
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Thanks Finally. I got it at Menards in Southport.
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Blue,
For what it's worth. I bought the Kobalt (Lowes brand) sliding miter saw and for the money I am very happy with it. Laser guide. I saw they have a fold up stand on wheels for it also.
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Thanks for the tip Yankee. The reviews are great on it! I couldn't get a price to show up but other places are selling it for the $150 range. In my honest opinion, this is a crucial piece of equipment for hive building. I just can't get my edges straight with a table saw (dangerous to cut long board across the grain on) or a skill saw.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_358936-46069-SM3055LW_0__?productId=3512781&Ntt=kobalt+miter&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dkobalt%2Bmiter&facetInfo=
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Thanks Finally. I got it at Menards in Southport.
We must get what your store rejects :laugh: :laugh:
Same here on using the table saw. Got lucky and got a nice radial arm saw at a great price. Also just picked up a planer. Now I just need quality lumber 8)
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I thought the planer was to make so so boards into quality lumber.
That planer coupled with a good table saw will fix most everything, except knot holes.
The larger Menards stores up here have fairly decent lumber.
You just have to watch for a sale and sort through a couple of bins to find a few good ones.
Gives me something to do when not shoveling snow!
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With Menards you have to watch for WET boards. They sell enough wood that it has no time to air and dry. Unstack it and give it a day and it will be crookeder than a dogs hind leg.. Makes making frame bars a REAL pain sometimes.. for frame bars I usually pay the extra couple bucks to get a board at the local lumber yard that is dried like it should be.
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I never buy more than I can put together in a couple days from them.
Their select brand is dried before shipping normally.
I always just buy wood frames in bulk, not worth my time to cut all those.
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Even bought a 2x8 at a local lumber yard. 10 X's straighter than Menards but still wet. Have a buddy that builds homes. He's going to let me know when he has a pile of drops. Nice dry white pine. We'll see how those go because right now I'm not too excited about making frames. Too much movement (though they should be fine for the swarm box's - bad ones to the outsides)
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Blue i use a skill saw bot i clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use that as a guide cuts very straight that way.
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Rod, as soon as you said that my mind instantaneously created a jig because I would be bothered by re-positioning the scrap wood and clamp every cut. If a person used a skill saw, they could build a jig where you could slide your board on and use the guides as measurements for long and short sides...well, shoot, let me sketch it real quick. It's Blueblood's crazy idea time.... ;) This would potentially work for both nucs and regular hive bodies.
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rodmaker~
"Blue i use a skill saw bot i clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use that as a guide cuts very straight that way."
i was going to jump in earlier blue on this and yes what rodmaker said. we have a contractor grade skil saw, purchase a good plywood blade, and use a clamp on straight edge guide from rockler woodworking (they come in different lengths, we have 3 or 4 of them) easy to unclamp, slide, adjust and saw. we have cut all sorts of sheets of plywood thickness's (length and width) and also birch, oak and maple......have to say a perfect clean cut every time.
ps, the guides hang nicely on the garage wall and come in handy quite frequently for other tasks....... ;)
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I spent the better half of the afternoon whipping up a prototype for this 5-frame nuc with 3/4" pine boards. I didn't have any 1"-12" lumber. So, I busted out the Kreg pocket hole jig and laminated some board to the widths I needed. I will modify the lid on the next one to attach the lid end on the bottom of the lid like you would see on the plywood version. I have found that the best way to position/fix the ends on bottom of the lid is to place is to attach all four side of box, place the lid upside down on work space and then the box on top. I then affix the ends to the lid aligning them ever so slightly away from the box end to allow for some expansion (maybe 1/32") but remain snug enough also.
I placed a thin coat of Titebond glue on the exposed plywood grain last season before painting and let it dry overnight to assist in keeping the water out of the end grain. I have used the boxes for swarm catching but plan on using them for splits and wintering over this season. If the plywood nucs decay, I will just build more.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2F9xf5o0o5l%2FDSCF9961.jpg&hash=014ee8e21a8a06a1f6bc0299f38920cee819a5c1) (http://postimg.cc/image/9xf5o0o5l/)
Dave going back to post 19. I hope you are going to put some 3/8 X 3/4 strips on each end to stop the frames from sliding end ways while it is being moved. As it is, the frames can slide misaligning the shoulders on the end bars and this will allow the frames to come together and you will loss the bee space and could crush bees. As well end up with larger spaces between the combs and have the bees fill the extra space with bur comb.
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In the mood to build some NUC boxes. Everyone who built NUC boxes out of plywood in 2014, how are they holding up? I always used pine boards and was afraid of plywood. If they held up all these years then I will give plywood a whirl.
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I got 3 years out of mine. then they delaminated on the outside to the point where there were flaking off layers, so i ditched them rather than sand and repaint...
Personally, I'd stick with the pine.