Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints => Topic started by: LazyBkpr on December 08, 2013, 02:27:55 pm
-
This was MY take on the bee vac....
I wanted to handle the bees as little as possible, with as little stress on them as possible (actually I wanted it to be easy for ME)
So I started with the base of a hive and a brood chamber, then designed the VAC part to go on top of it... so at the end of the day, ALl i had to do was put an innver cover and tele cover on it and walk away...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0133.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0133.jpg.html)
The vac motor and attachments came from a used shop vac that had broken wheels,and that eventually wore a hole in the bottom as it got drug around.. so I cut it up!!!
Below, you can see the inlet.. it had an angle on it when I removed it from the original vac so i had to cut that off so the bees came straight in without hitting anything. I made two carb holes to either side of the inlet to help regulate the draw, or vacuum and screened them...
I used a pegboard to dispurse the suction through the entire top of the vac so the bees wouldnt get Sucked up against it, and covered that with regular window screen..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0132.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0132.jpg.html)
I made the inlet chamber three to four inches from the top to allow some room for the bees.. and in the event there are a LOT of bees I can drop another box on top of it for additional space..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0130.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0130.jpg.html)
My first attempt at using it didnt turn out well, still had too much vacuum.. so I drilled another relief hole in the top so I could get the suction slow enough that it didnt hurt the bees..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0134.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0134.jpg.html)
That made all the difference.. the second attempt went MUCH better with MAYBE a dozen dead bees...
Because its a standard hive body and bottom board under the vac, I had to make a cleat to fill the lower entrance.. and just used two deck screws to hold it in place...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0131.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0131.jpg.html)
I can carry it with one hand even full of bees. I have two ten foot pieces of cpvc I can put on the hose to reach UP if I need to..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0136.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0136.jpg.html)
Disadvantages.. so far is that I suck up insulation and other debris, so I have to be careful.. with the lower vacuum I had less trouble with this on the second cut out I did and was not unhappy with the results.. I also need to find a better hose.. I dont like the ribbed hose that Came with it, and the next hose I bought and adapted is too stiff and heavy.. I have heard that a pool hose works well.. but I want one thats at least two inches in diameter..
Hope this helps anyone looking to make their own!!!
If you want to buy one.. Give Robo a yell.. I think his is similar but a little more refined.. Cheers!!!
Scott
-
Here is mine and it works great on the ground but I like the compactness of yours Lazy and here is why:
-
I have one based almost entirely on Robo's design. The one thing I would do differently is what Lazy has done, and that is incorporate the vac head directly to the bee-vac. Mine is like Dave's, and the second hose and stuff is a pita!
If I see one at a yard sale cheap I may buy it just for the motor.
-
Perry, I have two old, but working smaller shop vacs. I forgot I had them. I just may have to build another vac this winter...hmmmmm :geek:
-
Doesnt Robo's later design incorporate the motor?? Might have been someone elses.. been a while since I was looking....
When I did the second cutout I just tied a rope to the strap I use to hold it all together and hoisted it up.. then used the rope to tie it off beside the ladder.. I like it.. I know some folks frown on bee vacs.. but I think I save MORE bees than if I was trying to sweep them up or brush them off combs etc.. I also get a lot of satisfaction when a bee is buzzing my face by holding the nozzle up by it.... PHOOOP GONE! As I said.. getting debris in on top of the bars can be a pain... A little care when using it and its not bad...
When i get to the yard.. I get tine inner cover and lid.. give it a thump downward.. pop the top, drop the lids on... Use my B&D battery powered drill with a Philips bit to pop out the two screws in the entrance cleat.. take it, and the vac top and head for the house.. No setting up or dumping bees into another box.. Go out the next morning and see them orienting and by afternoon the dead bees from the vac job will be in front of the hive.. under a dozen on last job.. Didnt even see the queen... I was LOOKING.. but she got SUCKED!!! and apparently survived it.... Still trying to get as good as JP..
-
Yep me too...............
[attachment=0:kuyofqgz]009.JPG[/attachment:kuyofqgz]
Yes robo has a later design incorporating the motor in the sliding part.
-
Pretty good video of an ol country boy and a robo vac.
[youtube:2v74w3hn]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=922gkjV3iqA[/youtube:2v74w3hn]
-
Yeah! THATS the one I saw that allowed you to incorporate the comb easier!!!
-
I built my vac using G's video up there. I paused him several times and estimated the dimensions from the surroundings and would go workshop and back to the computer several times. :D
-
ROBO!!! Wheres yours at? At least a link!
-
Lazy, look at the ad on the right of the front page.
-
Has anyone ever used a bucket vac (home depot I think) that fits on top of a 5 gallon bucket??
-
never used a bucket vac, but word of caution would be that it will overheat quickly in the sun. Wood provides a much better insulation to keep the heat out and away from the bees. I will use a squirt bottle or just sprinkler a little water on the bees if I feel they might over heat.
-
Good thought. Makes sense. Was just curious. If they survive I have about 9-10 lb hive to vac up in the spring. Made a temp home for them in late October. Will have to figure out how I want to get them out come spring.
-
I don't know how far you are from Blueblood, but he's about as decent a guy as you could meet, and I think he has one. If you were close enough he'd probably tag along. ;)
-
I have seen those up close and personal.. pretty good little vac, but not suitable for bees "as is" The bees will get sucked in too hard, and they will get sucked against the filter.. to use one of those you need to use a double basket, or another bucket that the bees get pulled into so you can reduce the actual suction that pulls them in. Ideally, you want them to BARELY get sucked into the hose at close range.. to the point of thinking OMG this is going to take FOREVER!!!!! Yes! It does, but if you want to SAVE those bees it needs to take a long time.. too much suction, and too much heat will both kill them very quickly..
Look at G3's design, Robo's design, and mine.. you should be capable of figuring a way to reduce the power of the vac, as well as provide a gentler "landing" zone inside the vac.. dispersing the suction over a wider area allows the larger inner chamber to reduce the actual suction so the bees can settle without getting pulled against the source of the vacuum, and yet allow the HOSE enough suction to JUST pull them through...
I used too much suction to start with, and paid the price in a nasty sticky mess of dead bees... Impatience when vacing bees is your enemy.
-
Well I made an attempt to simulate the one G3 made(ROBO). Only thing I didn't do was the window screen under the top board. Not sure as to why that is there but hopefully I'll find out before I have to use it. So chime in if you can Robo or G3... I would have to trim my hose so it wouldn't puncture it. I do have the hardware cloth on the second small frame. The close up of the top shows some small holes. Hopefully you can see the plexiglas there. It slides in the track. Also one of my sons got me the bucket vac. That thing only has about half the suction of my regular one which works perfect for this application. With the vent fully closed it will suck up sawdust about 1 1/2" away from the hose. With it open it will suck it up about 1/2" away. Hoping that will work well with the bees. I have 1/4" foam between all box's to help seal it up. Any thoughts???
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa304%2F79petra%2FFord%2520tractor%2520stuff%2FGarden%2FHoney%2520Bees%2FBeeVac001_zps7518d97e.jpg&hash=191ae30bb9b5c358842d1e57b514908cf4a79179) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/79petra/media/Ford%20tractor%20stuff/Garden/Honey%20Bees/BeeVac001_zps7518d97e.jpg.html)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa304%2F79petra%2FFord%2520tractor%2520stuff%2FGarden%2FHoney%2520Bees%2FBeeVac002_zps3a623eeb.jpg&hash=3e28d91cba0d9a3c982dd1c186e87b0f99afefa0) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/79petra/media/Ford%20tractor%20stuff/Garden/Honey%20Bees/BeeVac002_zps3a623eeb.jpg.html)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa304%2F79petra%2FFord%2520tractor%2520stuff%2FGarden%2FHoney%2520Bees%2FBeeVac003_zpsebdb6d9d.jpg&hash=7e8cb42e6cd6ec56476d3b8123fe9935f4037c61) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/79petra/media/Ford%20tractor%20stuff/Garden/Honey%20Bees/BeeVac003_zpsebdb6d9d.jpg.html)
Need to find a shorter strap although for now it looks like a nice christmas bow on top??
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa304%2F79petra%2FFord%2520tractor%2520stuff%2FGarden%2FHoney%2520Bees%2FBeeVac004_zps928248fd.jpg&hash=9880622cc777d45ae08946168e8f7b9ce9410c63) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/79petra/media/Ford%20tractor%20stuff/Garden/Honey%20Bees/BeeVac004_zps928248fd.jpg.html)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa304%2F79petra%2FFord%2520tractor%2520stuff%2FGarden%2FHoney%2520Bees%2F003_zpscbece68f.jpg&hash=e7b15b840d1ac6f3e773fbe49b4b6988d6ae930d) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/79petra/media/Ford%20tractor%20stuff/Garden/Honey%20Bees/003_zpscbece68f.jpg.html)
-
Only thing I didn't do was the window screen under the top board. Not sure as to why that is there but hopefully I'll find out before I have to use it. So chime in if you can Robo or G3... I would have to trim my hose so it wouldn't puncture it.
Not quite sure what you were trying to replicate. Your second small frame looks like perhaps you were trying to make a cut out shim(?) but without the hardware cloth being removable. As long as you keep that second small frame right under your top piece it should be OK.
My concerns are with the vac you are trying to use. I find anything less than 5HP to be under powered and hose less that 2-1/2" diameter to be more harmful to the bees.
Can it work, probably. Will it cause head-aches for you? Perhaps depending on the situation at the time.
Best of Luck.
-
I dont like the hose thats ribbed on the inside.. Just seems like it would beet the poo clear out of the bees all the way through to me... Otherwise I think it looks good.
Finding a 2 1/2 inch hose is a royal pain. This stuff is still ribbed inside, but the ribs are smoother, less course and may work.. Havent tried any yet.. still looking.
http://www.thegreenchalet.com/2.5-Inch-Premium-Quality-Truck-Mount-Vacuum-Hose.html
-
http://www.thegreenchalet.com/2.5-Inch-Premium-Quality-Truck-Mount-Vacuum-Hose.html
Save your money. I have many folks using standard shop vac type hose without issue. May times 30+ feet with very a low mortality. If you use 2-1/2" shop vac hose and have a high mortality, your problem is somewhere else and is not the hose.
http://beevac.com/faq/#vachose
-
I will bow to your vastly superior knowledge Robo. I really dont want to spend a couple hundred bucks for hose.... I just didnt like the rough interior...
Excellent. I'll stick with the shop vac hose then. Two cut outs to do already... just waiting for spring... Staring out the window at the snow falling, and the wind blowing it into drifts, and tapping my foot impatiently....
Thanks for the link... had to read a bunch of stuff there... I may have to abandon my base board and make a bottom like your Vac has.. WIll see how those two cutouts go and how much debris I get on top of the frames...
Quote from the site...
The volume of the super makes the air velocity drastically decrease once it exits the hose. This causes the majority of the debris (and bees) to drop out of the air flow.
Thats a good explanation.. I was struggling to explain that part of the chamber volume VS hose diameter.
Edit;
First time I have been to that site in better than a year I would guess... I had to repost here and say... that for the price ROBO is selling those Vac's.. I would never attempt to build my own again.. A lot of detail and work there for that price.
-
Maybe it's me, but something in those pics seems strange. That top that you refer to is not very thick. Would that not place the suction or working end of your vac quite close to the bees below the screen? Not sure what to make of it. Is that screen piece the one you will be using to re-unite the bees with frames of banded brood?
Something doesn't make sense to me (not always an unusual thing ).
-
Only thing I didn't do was the window screen under the top board. Not sure as to why that is there but hopefully I'll find out before I have to use it. So chime in if you can Robo or G3... I would have to trim my hose so it wouldn't puncture it.
Not quite sure what you were trying to replicate. Your second small frame looks like perhaps you were trying to make a cut out shim(?) but without the hardware cloth being removable. As long as you keep that second small frame right under your top piece it should be OK.
My concerns are with the vac you are trying to use. I find anything less than 5HP to be under powered and hose less that 2-1/2" diameter to be more harmful to the bees.
Can it work, probably. Will it cause head-aches for you? Perhaps depending on the situation at the time.
Best of Luck.
I did suck up a fly off the basement window and it lived??? Can you explain a little more on why a smaller diameter hose is more harmful. Just trying to learn and understand it all (well some of it anyway).
-
I dont like the hose thats ribbed on the inside.. Just seems like it would beet the poo clear out of the bees all the way through to me... Otherwise I think it looks good.
Finding a 2 1/2 inch hose is a royal pain. This stuff is still ribbed inside, but the ribs are smoother, less course and may work.. Havent tried any yet.. still looking.
http://www.thegreenchalet.com/2.5-Inch-Premium-Quality-Truck-Mount-Vacuum-Hose.html
This hose has a smooth bore. Used in many injection molding plants. See through so they can see the plastic pieces entering but smooth so no clogging. Was hoping to find a larger diameter but this was free. I can always drill a larger hole when I find bigger hose.
-
Maybe it's me, but something in those pics seems strange. That top that you refer to is not very thick. Would that not place the suction or working end of your vac quite close to the bees below the screen? Not sure what to make of it. Is that screen piece the one you will be using to re-unite the bees with frames of banded brood?
Something doesn't make sense to me (not always an unusual thing ).
Don't know. What if I put a 90 degree elbow under the suction line on top?? Might disperse the suction a bit??
As far as the screen I figure it would be no different than putting a box filled with frames next to them for most to march in and cut the comb and put in another box. When done, put the two together? (similar to a cut out)
Once I have the banded brood ready,(after removing top board) I'll spray the framed box with sugar water through the mesh (like installing package bees) then just lift the top off and put the brood box on. I have to lift the framed box off the bottom piece to put it on a bottom board as well.
Make sense or am I missing something.
I just didn't like the way he had to pull that mesh out. I would be too afraid of hurting too many bees by getting them caught if they were hanging on to it.
-
Can you explain a little more on why a smaller diameter hose is more harmful. Just trying to learn and understand it all (well some of it anyway).
http://beevac.com/faq/#vachose
-
Can you explain a little more on why a smaller diameter hose is more harmful. Just trying to learn and understand it all (well some of it anyway).
http://beevac.com/faq/#vachose
Gotcha. Thanks Hadn't clicked on your link earlier.
I will keep looking for a larger hose. I can always make the hole bigger. Going to be 15' up in a loader bucket this spring so that's why I went with the small vac and hose.
-
Not sure if you got the answers you were looking for but I will chime in.........
"Only thing I didn't do was the window screen under the top board. Not sure as to why that is there but hopefully I'll find out before I have to use it."
If you made your top with a slide out panel (Robo style) you will soon figure out that the screen is needed to contain the vacuumed bees in the hive body when the slide out panel is "slid out". On hot days you WILL need to remove the slide out panel or the vacuumed bees will over heat and die.
"So chime in if you can Robo or G3... I would have to trim my hose so it wouldn't puncture it. I do have the hardware cloth on the second small frame."
The hardware cloth on the cut out shim should be able to be slid out, not stapled on. You will find that vacuumed bees are pissy bees, this lesson will be a quick and short one.
The 2 1/2" hose is available at home depot or lowes. If you need more clearance on the top sliding board for the hose consider adding apiece of plywood to make it thicker. Look at the hose entrance on mine and also where the plexiglass piece is for the vacuum regulator.
Not sure if you saw the video I had posted but it is just a country boys view of it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=922gkjV3iqA
-
Not sure if you got the answers you were looking for but I will chime in.........
"Only thing I didn't do was the window screen under the top board. Not sure as to why that is there but hopefully I'll find out before I have to use it."
If you made your top with a slide out panel (Robo style) you will soon figure out that the screen is needed to contain the vacuumed bees in the hive body when the slide out panel is "slid out". On hot days you WILL need to remove the slide out panel or the vacuumed bees will over heat and die. Won't the hardware cloth keep the bee's contained when the slide out panel is out??
"So chime in if you can Robo or G3... I would have to trim my hose so it wouldn't puncture it. I do have the hardware cloth on the second small frame."
The hardware cloth on the cut out shim should be able to be slid out, not stapled on. You will find that vacuumed bees are pissy bees, this lesson will be a quick and short one.
The 2 1/2" hose is available at home depot or lowes. If you need more clearance on the top sliding board for the hose consider adding apiece of plywood to make it thicker. Look at the hose entrance on mine and also where the plexiglass piece is for the vacuum regulator. Will look for a larger hose.
Not sure if you saw the video I had posted but it is just a country boys view of it.
-
Went to Robo's website. Watched all the video's there. Now it makes a whole lot more sense. Back to the drawing board ??? ???
Revamped version!!
http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php/topic,433.0.html