Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints => Topic started by: Yankee11 on March 10, 2015, 12:10:12 am
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Finally got around to working on my jig to put the taper on my home made frame side bars.
will refine it more as I go. looks like its gonna work pretty good.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2F88ouv115n%2F20150307_195132.jpg&hash=3d504a0f77fb02e5621583c957e87e6c8dbe24c1) (http://postimg.cc/image/88ouv115n/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2Fiwsltvb4r%2F20150307_195255.jpg&hash=a9134bcd63eebefd4da8620df9aba11639015111) (http://postimg.cc/image/iwsltvb4r/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2Fv8vi7cyzf%2F20150308_105119.jpg&hash=1484f8ffac37b2b6981b606c31dc189c636f745d) (http://postimg.cc/image/v8vi7cyzf/)
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Yes Sir! Looks good! Glue a stop to that plywood, and make another one for deep frames (If you use them). Then show me, err, US how you do your top bars. Those are what take
me the longest. ;D
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You guys are makin me jealous with all the stuff you have goin on. :P
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Looks great!
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Just a thought........would it not be easier to cut the taper in the block "before" you slice off each individual end bar. This would speed up the process by only making two cuts on a large block versus two cuts on each individual side bar. Also allow you to work with a larger piece of wood keeping fingers further away from a saw blade.
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I do agree with you. I think a jointer is what I will end up have soon. Stalking craigslist this year.
I think ive seen Lazy usa a table saw to do the mediums but cant do the deeps on a table saw.
But, it really didn't take long to do each one, may 3 seconds and flip 3 seconds, done. Have no idea how long a jointer takes.
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Have no idea how long a jointer takes.
ABout the same.. by the time you stack a few plates, slide them across to the stop, flip them over, restack and slide..
i am always looking for a better way. Kerfing 1/8 of an inch off each side with the table saw is hard on the blades. I will try to kerf about 40 blocks in one run.. by the time I am done there is SMOKE in the shop and my 6 dollar tool shop blade is toast..
I have NEVER bought an expensive blade.. are they worth it? I see them for 60 ish dollars.. compared to SIX dollars, I have a hard time believing they will last 6 times as long as that cheap blade.. Have you tried them?
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I bought my radial arm saw from sears in 74 and I have spent more for saw blades than I payed for the saw and all the accessory that I got with it, I used one blade and it was so dull that I almost burned the motor up on it, keep a good sharp blade on it after that, which remind me I need to get a new blade now for it .
Ken
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"I have NEVER bought an expensive blade.. are they worth it? I see them for 60 ish dollars.. compared to SIX dollars, I have a hard time believing they will last 6 times as long as that cheap blade.."
you get what you pay for.......we don't own a jointer but we have a RAS, a miter saw, a table saw, and an expensive skil saw and trim saw. the better blades will get you more mileage and smoother accurate cuts with no smoke in your shop scott, and can be resharpened, cheap blades, just throw them away, can't really be resharpened. keep in mind buy a blade for the material you are cutting with any of these tools, not something general purpose. also we don't buy cheap router bits for the router or the laminate trimmer.
buy a $60 blade once, and you won't go back to the cheap stuff. you will spend more money buying cheap blades everytime they go dull vs buying a good blade that will last much longer, and can be resharpened by those skilled who know how to do it.
just my humble opinion.......
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Just a thought........would it not be easier to cut the taper in the block "before" you slice off each individual end bar. This would speed up the process by only making two cuts on a large block versus two cuts on each individual side bar. Also allow you to work with a larger piece of wood keeping fingers further away from a saw blade.
Exactly what I thought while looking at the picture, and if you use (have) a band saw a block could be even bigger...
I am in agreement with riverbee in regards to the blade selection, only the best, for accurate work and safety.
All my blades, cutters and bits come from Canada, USA, Germany, Sweden and Italy.
P.S. funny that all cars/trucks I had in my life came from those countries
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While I typically agree with getting what you pay for in regards to blades, I do have one example of quite the opposite...
I purchased an $85 10" finishing blade for my Dewalt 10" compound mitre saw. The blade is guaranteed for life: free sharpening or replacement. This even includes broken teeth!
Well, I've only used it a couple of times. The first time was to cross cut a length of 1x4 pine... Smoked up the whole house! I've tested it a couple of other times with the same result.
I reached out to the company two weeks ago and I haven't heard back. I am going to call them, versus emailing them or contacting them through their web site, to see if that gets me anywhere. I will not "bash" them yet... But so far I am unimpressed. I did NOT get what I paid for!