Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Products Of The Hive => Topic started by: Finally Home on December 29, 2013, 04:58:13 pm
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I was given a honey extractor with a galvanized tub and want to coat it to be sure I know its safe.
Wondering if anyone has ever used this.
www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Camcote-1qt/productinfo/615/
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I've not used it, it's not available in Canada. I do have a friend that used the equivalent up here and it did an excellent job from what I saw. I believe a lot of keeps south of the border have used it with success.
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I used it 20 years ago on a galvanized extractor. I got it from Walter T. Kelley Co. You may find shipping cheaper at one or the other to make the total price favor one.
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I think the shipping here is about equivalent to the camcote.
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You might even check a local paint supply store to see if they can order a food grade epoxy paint. Might be even cheaper. I have tried to look for cam-coat on the www but come up pretty empty on it.
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Kelley has the food grade epoxy by the same company, at 14.00.
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Interesting. Didn't even know they made such a product.
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Here's the extractor I'm wanting to coat. No tag as far as manufacturer but can barely read on the front.. Looks like it says
BEWARE
BEEWARE
_ _ _ _ _ _
anyone ever seen one like this??
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pretty rugged looking extractor.. No plastic to be seen!! I bet that will hold up for a long while if you can refurbish it!
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Thats what I'm hoping for. Have the small plastic one now that takes someone bigger than me to hold it down while I crank ??? This one don't move around when I crank it.
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LOL I've always thought pouring a concrete block around an extractor would be the only thing that could make it sturdy and stable.. I'd have done it too, I just cant figure out how to replace the lower bearing and seal...
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What if ya ran a lag bolt with a larger washer through the plastic about 3" from the top. Run it from the inside to a stud in the wall :-\ Should keep it still, eh??
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Yup, that or rattle stuff off the walls!!! :laugh:
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Is that a two frame reversible?
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Is that a two frame reversible?
Hoping one of you can tell me about it. The term you used does sound like it could be. The frame holders will pivot from one side to the other I'm guessing so you don't have to take them out and flip them over. It also has 4 wire mesh pieces that slip in a groove on each side of the frame holders. What would these be for?
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Yes you have a reversible.
Put your honey frames in and crank in one direction and then crank in the other direction to extract the other side.
The screened pieces might be for spinning the honey out of cappings.
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That thing looks rock solid.
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Yes you have a reversible.
Put your honey frames in and crank in one direction and then crank in the other direction to extract the other side.
The screened pieces might be for spinning the honey out of cappings.
Thanks. Should be much easier than my plastic 2 frame. No flipping them over and no one else has to hold it down. The screened pieces have a mesh that approx. 1/8" squares. I'll probably clean them up good and use them. Appreciate the info :)
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That thing looks rock solid.
Very much so. Wish I could find more info on it as far as manufacturer but its been painted over on the outside and can't make out what it says.
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If I had to take a guess I would say it was made by A I Root Co. I own a 4 frame extractor with the same baskets with removable screens and hand brake at the top. A person from my bee club called it a swing frame extractor. Is the bottom flat or coned? Mine has a coned bottom with a non seal bearing that makes some noise but the run out is not bad so I just keep it greased with food grade from Dadant. To keep mine from walking when in use I tried anchoring to the wall shook wall to mush. I then installed three anchors in the floor to turn buckles to aviation cables up to the top of the extractor now my wall is not breathing :laugh: nor is the extractor walking away. :)
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Thanks for the info. What are the screens for? Mine has the coned bottom and bearing as well.
I'm going to be ordering the camcote tomorrow. I sanded the entire unit and I painted the outside yesterday. Will be making some sort of platform for it. Guess I'll find out the balance on it this year. When spinning empty it doesn't move at all. Very stable.
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The screens I feel just support the hole face of the combs so they are less likely to be damage during the extraction process and are removable for cleaning purposes. Another thing to keep from damaging the combs is to extract the first face only hale way at a slower speed rotate to the second face extract all the way then go back to the first face and finish. My extractor runs smooth empty as well but does shake if combs are not the same weight all through the extraction process. Mine is a four frame and all four basket rotate at the same time through linkage to the brake hub. Because the dia. is large enough for the four baskets to swing all at the same time and clear center shaft of the real I was able to build a new 20 frame radial real, love the 5 X capacity. When you run your extractor leave the gate valve open so the honey does not get deep enough to get in the lower bearing. When I dismantle the extractor for a complete clean out I place a plastic sandwich bag over it with a rubber band to keep the wash out water out of the bearing. Good luck happy extracting :)
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Just got my quart of Camcoat today.. I hope a quart is enough, but I have my doubts since I need to coat the basket too!
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Skydiver, thanks for the info. I'm sure it does move when a tad out of balance. Nice to dream though :laugh: Appreciate the extra tips on the gate valve open and covering the bearing for cleaning. Should make my job much easier.
Scott, I think the camcote said it covers like 300-400 square feet. I'll get mine ordered tomorrow. Too late to do it now. Let me know how it works for you.
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Will do!! Still trying to find someone to media or sand blast this thing.. going to be a LOT of sanding and scraping otherwise.
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I used a 3M rubber finger type disc on my angle grinder. Inside and outside in a little over an hour. Then about 10 minutes with an abrasive scrubber pad for the inside corners at the bottom. Wasn't too bad. Painted alum. hammered rustoleum on the outside. Needs a second coat yet.
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I do a lot of body work so the tools arent the problem with the old extractor I have. Thge problem is that it wasnt even rinsed after its last use. There is a crust 1/8th of an inch of more covering the inside AND the basket. The top o the crust is HARD, but under it is nasty softness that seems specifically designed to gum up sand paper and grinding disks. I have scraped a lot of it out already, what remains is just ugly, but i will figure something out!!!
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Yum - Yum..... Understood. Mine had a coat of greenish something inside. Came off easy though. Also galvanized. Wonder if you could set a couple light bulbs underneath to soften it up to make scraping a tad simpler??
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If I had one with the build up you people have I would just dismantle load it up and go to self serve car wash then proceed with the project. ;)
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If I had one with the build up you people have I would just dismantle load it up and go to self serve car wash then proceed with the project. ;)
Not a bad idea C:-) Still have plenty of time for that. Already dismantled - Hmmmmmmm
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I doubt the carwash would have much of an effect.. considering using a local shops steam cleaner though. Heat and water pressure might do the job.
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I doubt the carwash would have much of an effect.. considering using a local shops steam cleaner though. Heat and water pressure might do the job.
Customer of mine lets me use their hotsy. Plus its inside :)
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"Customer of mine lets me use their hotsy. Plus its inside " All the better. I have put my tankless water heater, set to the max 160 deg, and pressure washer, 3000psi, to use to clean mine up the first time. Just trying to get the thinker going and it is. :)
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Ya got mine going. Thanks 8)
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Well I got my can of Camcote.... Brushy Mountain website and catalog says it will cover 300-400 square feet. Label on the can says it will cover 50 square feet (depending on surfaces) :-X :-\ :-X :-\ :o :o That's a pretty far stretch. Guess as long as there is enough to cover my extractor (twice) I won't complain 8)
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Well I got my can of Camcote.... Brushy Mountain website and catalog says it will cover 300-400 square feet. Label on the can says it will cover 50 square feet (depending on surfaces) :-X :-\ :-X :-\ :o :o That's a pretty far stretch. Guess as long as there is enough to cover my extractor (twice) I won't complain 8)
YUP!!! I am likely going to have to order another can.. they dont look so big when holding them in your hand.
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My thought exactly. Haven't opened the can yet to see if it will be ok to do in the basement or if I'll have to take it out to the shed. Don't need to fumagate the whole house :D
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I can't swear to it, but I think I saw a "BeWare BeeWare" bee supply ad in old American Bee Journal volumes from around 1920.
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I can't swear to it, but I think I saw a "BeWare BeeWare" bee supply ad in old American Bee Journal volumes from around 1920.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to do some digging. Don't think I have any Bee Journal mags but do have Gleanings in Bee Cultures mags back to 1903.
Thanks for the heads up.
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Use caution when using high temp water when washing out the extractors as water temp above 145 deg will melt any bees wax particles and the wax will coat the metal and keep the paint from bonding. 120 deg will dissolve any honey crystals with out melting the wax particles.
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Good to know. thanks 8)
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oooh, Yeah, Thanks Apis, I hadnt even considered that!!!
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I was hoping i wasn't to late in posting and you had already done it. wax and paint dont play well together.
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Well I just gave it a good sanding with steel wool.
Got 2 coats on it. Worked really well. No real odor and still have a lil over half a can left. Looks real good.
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LOL I've always thought pouring a concrete block around an extractor would be the only thing that could make it sturdy and stable.. I'd have done it too, I just cant figure out how to replace the lower bearing and seal...
You need a carpenters level, 50 fender washers, and no cement anchors(use 6" eye bolts). Rough drill a 2" x 2" hole into the concrete maybe a fingers depth down, and buy yourself a little sack(2 lbs maybe???) of anchoring cement. The eyebolts won't turn out on you, because the anchor cement gets between the eye!!! Use stainless eyebolts!!!
I kept shaking out/pulling those worthless expanding/hammer in cement anchors. I got mad with a mini sledge, and a star drill(4" deep concrete under where a heavy milk cooler stood). I had chiseled the concrete in 3 places with rectangular slats. It was fun lol
Note to user: With 30 + frame extractors use grade 8 eye bolts, grade 5 works. High stress point/base mount/extractor hold down insurance policy beekeeper tested, wrecklessly proven.
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You will need to put the extractor up on a stand unless you have a sump pit O didn't want to drill holes in the concrete floor so I guilt a raised platform for the extractor. High enough so the discharge would go in to my double boiler multi use heat tank from there I can pump it in thru my strainer bucket into pails Bottling tank of drums. The box has 3 eyes and I have 3 long rod turnbuckles that hook over the top edge of the extractor and down to the bottom box eye bolts.
Extractor on box stand one of the turnbuckles is laying on the left side of the extractor. and 2 of the eyes are visible. The extractor is undone so blocks could be placed under so as to let the last of the honey drain out and to take it out side to wash it out.
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Honey gate at the end of the extractor discharge pipe entering the double boiler multi use heat tank. This is my one tank does everything tank, honey sump, 5 gallon pail honey liquifying tank, wax melter with screw press for pressing slum-gum, candle dipping and or wax poring tank. along with my hot water tank drain hot water from the double jacket and add more cold. It has 2 outlets one off the bottom and another 2" up the side.
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The honey pump is hooked up to the bottom drain and is pumped into the strainer pail and then falls into the pail for bulk storage.
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This is just the way i do it as I only us it a couple of days a year. I don't have floor drains or running hot and cold water near the extractor I just run a hose to the sump to fill it and supply hot and cold water.
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I like the set up Apis! I also like the bracket/mount for your electric motor on that extractor. Hadn't occurred to me to put it ABOVE, and that will certainly save some space.
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It also doesn't block of any area of the extractor lid and allows for easier access when cleaning. the guy I bought it off of had the motor bolted to the stand floor and used a very long belt. These extractors were built at a time when most shops used a single power shaft down the middle of the shop and every thing was powered from it by belts.
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I just bought an old 4-frame galvanized extractor last night. Probably overpaid, but I let the excitement of it get the better of me. So it now appears as though I'll be having to paint it (can't take a loss on it, so may as well invest more?). What I haven't seen in any of these posts is anything about etching primer. On other sites I've read that it's a must. I can sandblast it, belt-sand it, whatever... but will it "bee" enough? What would it look like after sand-blasting or sanding? Unless I've missed something, I don't see any re-finished ones pictured here. Could some of you please post images of your re-coated extractors and the specific process you used and how well it appears to be holding up, and how long/how much use it's had? Have any of you seen the need for an etching primer if sanding or sandblasting is done? Thank you for all your help and advice.
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Welcome Captain, like the name by the way. Personally, I was lucky enough to procure a stainless but I am sure someone will have the right answer or direction. Welcome to the forum! And, you may consider heading over to the welcome page and introducing yourself. 8)
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I just bought an old 4-frame galvanized extractor last night. Probably overpaid, but I let the excitement of it get the better of me. So it now appears as though I'll be having to paint it (can't take a loss on it, so may as well invest more?). What I haven't seen in any of these posts is anything about etching primer. On other sites I've read that it's a must. I can sandblast it, belt-sand it, whatever... but will it "bee" enough? What would it look like after sand-blasting or sanding? Unless I've missed something, I don't see any re-finished ones pictured here. Could some of you please post images of your re-coated extractors and the specific process you used and how well it appears to be holding up, and how long/how much use it's had? Have any of you seen the need for an etching primer if sanding or sandblasting is done? Thank you for all your help and advice.
First things first...... :D
Like Blueblood, I would like to extend a warm welcome to our "family" here. :welcome:
I am trying to locate some pictures of one that has been done and as soon as I do I'll post them. It may take me a bit to locate them on my computer. I remember being impressed by it, it did a nice job.
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I have one similar to that, it's a hand crank that i got from Sears & Roebuck in the mid 60's the same time i ordered my Midnight Bees :). I bought a can of camcote several years later and it's still in the can somewhere around here?? I bought a stainless steel two frame extractor and put the galvanized one up over the shop, haven't thought about it till this post?? We used it for years with no problems? does the galvanize flak off or what's the problem? i also have a galvanized Sorghum separator in the barn that's had tons of sorghum syrup produced and ate from it. I know the old extractor is a two frame but don't remember if it's a reversible or not? I bilt a wood stand for it (it's still on it, i think?) and our 2 children would argue who's turn it was to turn it :D. Now i'm going to have to clime up there and look it over. ??? Jack
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@BrooksBeeFarm - Actually this is in pretty nice shape, especially for it's age. The problem is the modern-day safety concern about galvanized items making contact with food. The CamCote is simply to seal the lead & zinc away from the honey... Allowing it to be considered food-grade. I would definitely be very interested in knowing the specific process everyone has used to refinish their and how it looked afterward.
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It is the acids in the honey that interacts with the galvanized coating which causes the safety concerns. Honey that stays in contact with galvanized for an extended period of time will take on a metallic taste. Also Most of the old galvanized extractors had the joints soldered together. The solder used was a 50/50 Tin/Lead mix, the lead causing a definite health safety issue when it comes to food contact.
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My old buddy that passed away just sprayed his on with a spray gun,it just looked like a film of pastic on the inside.Jack