Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Products Of The Hive => Topic started by: LazyBkpr on January 04, 2014, 01:58:12 pm
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Went this morning to pick up the extractor... :o
Well thats not what I was expecting from the descriptions given by my wife!!
Galvanized tank, so it will have to be cleaned and coated.. does powder coating stick to Galvanized steel?
Anyhow, I wasn't all that impressed.. nasty, wasnt cleaned the last time it was used.. The bracket for the motor is JUST about to finish breaking off, the motor smells like burnt electrical, so quite sure that will need to be replaced....
Then I started looking at it closer.. its ALL metal. the basket weighs in at about 150 lbs, the bottom of it is cast where the frames rest... RUGGED heavy assembly.. Has an oval manufaturers tag on the side, didn't try to clean it up to see if I can figure out who made it... Big cast honey gate at the bottom of the galvy tank, bottom sloped to the sides with a removable bearing housing in the raised center. Bearing looks good, feels good, but the seal needs to be fixed.. The motor runs a belt, that runs a shaft to a disk. the disk mates against a metal wheel to turn the basket.. I'll probably have to laminate rubber to one of the other, looks like the guy had DUCT tape on it to create enough friction to make it work the last time it was used...
It is a mess to be sure... BUT, I think I can resurrect it.. REBUILD it, Bigger, stronger, FASTER! It was 100 bucks as it sat, cant expect much of an extractor for that price.
I have a couple of motors and plenty of steel and welding wire. I'll either need to coat the tank or have it powder coated. Not sure powder coating is acceptable, and or will stick to galvanized steel? Or should I go with the food grade paint?
I'll get pictures when my new Camera shows up this coming week.
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Camcote or epoxy paint.
Nice find. Have fun and enjoy.
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BUT, I think I can resurrect it.. REBUILD it, Bigger, stronger, FASTER!
6 Million Dollar Centrifuge?
You go Lazy! ;D
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http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Camcote-1qt/productinfo/615/
Going to order mine real soon. Quoted me $11.31 to ship.
Nice find on the extractor. I repainted all my upper parts already. Need to work up a motor set up though. Got any pictures of how your motor mounts up?
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Good score! Camcote as mentioned by many others.
The friction set up you mention sounds like something still in use on some not too old extractors so I am betting once you read the oval label you can probably still gets parts.
$100 will only get you a couple of two-fours up here so you did well. ;)
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After I did the bigger stronger and faster thing I thought I had perhaps dated myself.. glad to see someone got the reference!!!
I'll get pictures of it so you can see how everything hooks up/looks.
I'll check on the Camcoat as well, already went to that thread again too.
This thing is crazy rugged. I hope I can still get parts, that would be SO sweet.. if I cant.. I still have my Lathe, so fabricating whatever is needed is an option.
I'll get pics and update as it goes.
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After I did the bigger stronger and faster thing I thought I had perhaps dated myself.. glad to see someone got the reference!!!
Lee Majors is peddling hearing aids now. "It doesn't cost six million dollars, but you'll think it's worth it!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLj-1kkFtUQ
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finally found an image of an extractor resembling the one I bought. this one is a 45 frame, but the same type of drive system, handles on the tank etc...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58742788@N05/5389174876/
Anyone know of a site that has pics and means of identifying antique extractors?
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Sure looks like one skookum machine to me. I bet there are a couple keeps on here that will be able to tell you more about it.
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I got this 30 frame baby, took it apart, sandblasted all steel parts. Going to apply two coats of camcote on the basket. First with brush, second to spray. Made a new stainless steel body, ordered it to be made from 18 ga, my friend made it from 16 ga - cylinder and 14 ga bottom. (to be stronger, he said :o)
When assembled it will take 3 man to load it on the truck. On original body found a brass plate with serial No. 20, made in Brantford, Ontario. Could be 50 - 60 years old. Will post pictures when finished.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs7.postimg.cc%2F7c7ayxijb%2Fold_extractor_001.jpg&hash=03106441152ad9396ce78f3b3d8049a571f4c090) (http://postimg.cc/image/7c7ayxijb/)
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That's a beast. Looking forward to seeing the pics.
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Beast is right!!
That will be a thing of beauty with a new SS drum.
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Marbees!! Thats REALLY close!!!!! My basket is a bit different, as is the drive slightly different. I dont have the twisty handle on the top. I assume that adjusts the speed by moving the drive wheel up and down the disk?? Same piece of channel that mounts everything...
YES, it took three of us to load and unload it. Three men and a a baby would have been perfect, its all three can do to handle it.
WHO is making you the stainless steel drum? I WANT ONE! ;D
I don't have access to a spool gun or I would make one myself..
NOW, that I have ordered a new camera, my other camera has SUDDENLY re appeared with NEW candle pictures on it.. :-X so I can get pics of it today. Thanks for posting!!!!
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D Moore Co. Ltd? Jones maybe?
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi664.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv1%2FPerryBee%2FOldextractor010_zps71108be3.jpg&hash=3f494fb096faf77be966bd3ccde5d5a34402358f) (http://s664.photobucket.com/user/PerryBee/media/Oldextractor010_zps71108be3.jpg.html)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi664.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv1%2FPerryBee%2FOldextractor009_zpscbd3ff1e.jpg&hash=26c414f3036a12414b50e9473a5d6ad6f892dcd9) (http://s664.photobucket.com/user/PerryBee/media/Oldextractor009_zpscbd3ff1e.jpg.html)
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You can order ss sheet metal through your local welding shop, go with 18 ga, that's more than enough. Use old drum for measurements, so old basket will fit as a glove.
Sand blasting of the basket is a must on these old timers. Clean with a blast of air from your compressor, wash with alcohol then two coats of camcote. Wait for a week between coats. Give it time to cure properly. At least one coat with brush, for a thicker coat.
Good luck :)
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OK, Pictures;
I wiped the side off, but the label was GONE, leaving only a trace of color on the side;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs17.postimg.cc%2Fusgx7knaj%2FDSCN0313.jpg&hash=54c1af145ce52c523b6859e81ab4763a8a6a8c49) (http://postimg.cc/image/usgx7knaj/)
Anyone seen an oval label with black red and gold?? :) I think its a varient of the one Marbees posted.
The Tub;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2Fdphkvh4zt%2FDSCN0315.jpg&hash=73110c4735791702b6538095ffbc704966395e9e) (http://postimg.cc/image/dphkvh4zt/)
The Basket;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2F8yvy21x8p%2FDSCN0316.jpg&hash=91e20b315162f1de0865e3c7a9d543dea32b5acd) (http://postimg.cc/image/8yvy21x8p/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs24.postimg.cc%2Fxdu48ap7l%2FDSCN0318.jpg&hash=c5bb20050cf35b07fbee6db9b13e52b1c448e13f) (http://postimg.cc/image/xdu48ap7l/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs13.postimg.cc%2Frfqqizuvn%2FDSCN0319.jpg&hash=d6c0b4f8a9a1fb8acf551e94ed9409d1ceaffc4a) (http://postimg.cc/image/rfqqizuvn/)
The basket holds 24 frames. Not sure I like how the little nubs are spaced.. they did it that way so they wouldnt have to use as many. I'll probably move them to more securely hold the tops of the frames.
The lower bearing;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs22.postimg.cc%2F7184icszx%2FDSCN0320.jpg&hash=f682c29595934aedc612b3f6c0a7e64496c4dd87) (http://postimg.cc/image/7184icszx/)
It looked pretty rough to me, until I realized someone had slid a metal sleeve over the bearing housing, and hten slid a miller lite can into the sleeve to try to keep more of the honey out of the open bearing. I'll be rebuilding that with a new sealed bearing so I wont have to worry about it.
The Motor and mounts;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2Ffmnyawrd5%2FDSCN0321.jpg&hash=afdf4868dd6c0bbca919562d630ca612dd7b808c) (http://postimg.cc/image/fmnyawrd5/)
The L Bolt that secures the top bar to the tank also holds this bracket in place. While it appeared to work, the bracket has a crack in it nearly 3/4 of the way through so this will need strengthened.
A close up of the brackets;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs13.postimg.cc%2Fuqsvo3oyb%2FDSCN0322.jpg&hash=99d883ad2d769eeac1e946520a5396d96f558b27) (http://postimg.cc/image/uqsvo3oyb/)
Another pic of the basket with frames in it, and a pic of the bottom of the basket;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs29.postimg.cc%2Fow6nyhy1f%2FDSCN0323.jpg&hash=01fa6989a6759a044a66950ccc823cdd67856d0a) (http://postimg.cc/image/ow6nyhy1f/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs27.postimg.cc%2Flwlgz8qyn%2FDSCN0326.jpg&hash=365450d7bb9e461fd87f6a4ec652dd3dc78f135c) (http://postimg.cc/image/lwlgz8qyn/)
There is a lever on the drive mechanism that engages and disengages the clutch system. Under the drive system is another lever that has a band style brake to slow and stop the basket. Overall, I actually LIKE the entire set up, with a couple of exceptions..
The brake band.. where do the particles from the lining go when you using the brake?
The Clutch system. Where do the particles of leather or banding material go as the clutch is engaged?
The brake works AS IS, but I need to check the banding to make sure it isnt asbestos. There is no material left on the drive clutch, I can only assume it was leather at one point in time. I have considered using a serpentine belt cut to length and bonding it to the hub. the rubber would be outstanding for a contact material, and easily replaced, but as stated, I am a little worried about the debris from it.
The Knob to the back of the drive assembly raise sand lowers the contact wheel to change the speed of the basket, and it works fine...
I think it will be a little too easy to resurrect this thing, but my concerns are with the particles from the brake and clutch. WOndering if I shouldn't make a new drive shaft on my lathe and fix gears to it, and use a rheostat on the motor...
Thoughts?
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I think you got a pretty nice deal. A bit of elbow grease, some Camcote and you're off to the races. Heavy duty.
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What a cool find! Please keep us posted.
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I did a bit of cleaning today, and assembled the extractor. I wanted to clean the tape off the drive hub, so took it apart, and learned, it is LEATHER.. I assumed it was a metal wheel with leather wrapped around it.. but when I took the screws out, I found the entire center of the hub was disks of leather pressed together.... I cleaned it up a bit and put it back together, then loosened the two bolts that hold the drive disk, that rides up against the hub and slid it over about 1/4 inch and re tightened the bolts.. Made everything LOOK like it would work.. put the belt on and plugged the motor in... it took off without a grunt... Reached over and engaged the clutch mechanism.. the 200 lb basket began to spin, quickly gaining speed... as it spun happily, I began turning the speed nob, and brought the thing up to max speed.... it roared right along with a bit of vibration, but nothing intolerable... I disengaged the clutch, and applied the brake.. the drum slowed quickly to a stop.
Tickled PINK that this thing WORKS just as I bought it...
I will get a vid of it running before I disassemble it for cleaning / fixing / repainting / CamCoat..
Just out of curiosity, i wanted to weigh the basket.. 118 pounds ... :o thats without the motor clutch etc.. JUST the basket and the center rod/axle....... Hope I dont have to carry that monster about too much.
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Excellant news Sir..... So glad to hear that 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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With that kind of weight behind it, it shouldn't walk itself across the floor too much if the loads a little unbalanced. :goodjob:
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" i go out walkin after midnight, out in the moonlight, just like we used to do. i'm always walkin after midnight searchin for you"........
oops, sorry, wrong thread, thought we were talking about music....... :D :laugh:
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" i go out walkin after midnight, out in the moonlight, just like we used to do. i'm always walkin after midnight searchin for you"........
oops, wrong thread, thought we were talking about music....... :D :laugh:
That must be one unbalanced load B. ;)
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" i go out walkin after midnight, out in the moonlight, just like we used to do. i'm always walkin after midnight searchin for you"........
BLUSH :-[ Was that supposed to be a PM? ???
:laugh: LOL :laugh:
Well, heres the Vid of the extractor running.. I'd edit it but havent fussed with the moviemaker yet so you get the uncut vrsion;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi14.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa317%2FKnitePrince%2Fth_005-1.jpg&hash=8fd814d23c5278f2cc384b2babde5bda26d6caef) (http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/005-1.mp4)
Daughter running the camera.
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Link didn't work for me?? :'(
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that's cool lazy!
FH, did you click on lazy's photo, (guessing you did) and takes you to his photobucket video?
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that's cool lazy!
FH, did you click on lazy's photo, (guessing you did) and takes you to his photobucket video?
PHoto wasn't there when I was. Just a link?? Not quite a complete one. Not sure what happened. Worked this time.
Nice little toy there........
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A bit of Camcote and you are laughing my friend. If that thing could tell stories.
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html Link didnt work so I swapped it for a direct link FH.. you had to be fast, was there less than 30 seconds!! Dang your speedy!
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html Link didnt work so I swapped it for a direct link FH.. you had to be fast, was there less than 30 seconds!! Dang your speedy!
Right place, wrong time. It's all good now............................... 8)
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Same kinda handles on this one. Hmmm?
http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-art-collectibles-Antique-Honey-Extractor-W0QQAdIdZ524376637
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Very similar. the handle itself is cast Iron in a metal bracket.
Marbees.....
On original body found a brass plate with serial No. 20, made in Brantford, Ontario.
I assume its a Markle Honey Extractor, made in Brantford Ontario Inventor is GEORGE W. MARKLE???
I can find patent information, some writing in different journals, but surprisingly few pictures.
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LazyBkpr
The drive system is the same as mine. The extractor was built by the A. I. Root Company. The same guys that published the ABC XYZ of Bee Culture. If you have a copy look up the old extractors you will recognize some of the drives. It originally came with 4 metal plates that would drop in on the bottom supports and with the mesh on the outside of the drum once the extracting was finished you would put the 4 plates in the bottom and use the extractor as an capping spinner, It works great.
I built my motor mount up over top of the clutch drive shaft so it didn't interfere with the lid and access to the drum. The break is Asbestos so avoid using it. Let it wind down by itself, it doesn't take that long. The leather disk when in use doesn't shed much, the leather disk can last 50+ years. run the extractor empty to condition the disk before you start extracting and blow or rinse the dust out.
Here is mine it is a 20 Frame
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs10.postimg.cc%2Flix3p9q51%2F205.jpg&hash=ad2f86d56b56156a2fd7ff6a025e42a3dbfbdf6d) (http://postimg.cc/image/lix3p9q51/)
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Why does everything built way back then even look like it's tough! Nice picture K.
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They are tough, because they were built with pride of their work and not the almighty dollar as things are made today.
Ken
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Indeed. this extractor should completely outlast me and pssibly even my grandchildren, provided I ever have any grandchildren.
I have disassembled it and started cleaning a bit more.. I actually think I am going to be able to get the tank cleaned, but the basket is definitely going to have to be dipped or blasted etc.. New sealed bearings are already waiting. Need to get some silver and black paint for the outside of the tub and the braces for the drive system.. then it will be, as those cheeky Brits ay.. Brilliant!!!
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The extractor is finally being worked on.. I cleaned the tub well, and found that Lacquer thinner does a really nice number on the residue. If a bit messy, its no worse than using paint stripper and scraping the paint off something..
As I was wiping it down, I found, under the old oval logo, about a foot below it, another logo. Once wiped off, I can clearly read.. A.I.Root and part of Company..
So I have sanded the bejeesus out of the inside of the tank, and am not all thathappy with what remains.. the original paint is not easy to remove even with 80 grit sandpaper. with the exception of the high spots from past dents and dings, so the interior has a very mottled look to it..
I took a piece of galvanized tin from some old furnace ducting, and sanded it down, then coated it with a layer of aluminum paint. I let that dry well, then coated it with three coats of CamCoat. When that dries I am going to see how well it stands up to scrubbing washing etc to see if it peels. IF... it doesn't I will probably paint the tub by the same method so it LOOKS nice.. granted, once the basket is inside you cant really see much of the tub, but I still want it to look good if I am going to go through all of this to refurbish the old girl. If the camcoat peels or flakes with some scrubbing and flexing then it will have to remain mottled on the inside.
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Lazy the weak bonding layer will be the layer of aluminum paint. I would go with an compatible epoxy primer.
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You think?? I went with this particular paint because they use it on galvanized feeders, tanks and grain bins, it is supposed to bond to the galvanized better than most other paints.. or were you talking about the bond between the camcoat and the paint??
I havent gone up to check out the piece of tin I painted yet.. sanded well with 80 and 100 grit, then three layers of aluminum, then sanded with 220, wiped down with lacquer thinner and painted with the Camcoat.. I'll go up and abuse the piece of tin this weekend and see what happens..
I still have to figure out how to get the lower bearing out of the housing. I tried a slide hammer and it didn't even wiggle, so I will probably have to cut the rivets that hold the housing in the tub so I can take it to the shop and heat up the housing to free the bearing.. wouldnt want to melt the lead seems in the tub or I would just leave it in place.
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Lazy the weak bonding layer will be the layer of aluminum paint. I would go with an compatible epoxy primer.
I don't Think aluminum and honey go together well because of the low ph level of honey.
mvh Edward :P