Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Beekeeping 101 => Topic started by: vincent on September 26, 2015, 06:01:48 pm
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Hi beeks.
As a new beek I finally saw what happens when the hive gets mad. ;-)
It's fine. It was cooler out, little bit of wind. But when you drag yourself to the apiary. Open the hive and realize that there aren't that many foraging. What do you do really? I guess my question is, when the bees are all over the frames, can't even pick one up without squishing a bunch of bees. They are flying all over, covering your hands etc. Do you keep chugging away at it? Or give up?
V
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My beekeeping is a pleasure. If it isn't pleasurable, I quit and come back when it is.
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Good question. About 3 weeks ago was the last deep inspection for Josh and I. We were just squishing too many bees, all the hive are packed full of bees. As you said, we couldn't lift a frame without doing in several, there just isn't anywhere to get ahold of the frames, even with a good dose of smoke. We are currently monitoring wieght only. Ted
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I Love This Tool for a crowded hive! It's a frame gripper. It keeps my clumsy fingers from squishing bees and I can keep my gloves on while using it for those hives that aren't happy that you are bothering them. The wide blade on the end helps loosen up the frames so I pull them out more easily.
I do like Iddee's idea of close it up and leave if it's not pleasureable. However, sometimes your in the hive to Get Something Done, and you have to persevere for awhile.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2Fspeppugpn%2FDSCF8373.jpg&hash=6f39329a6b806e01edf01711dcd8cd012d0812b3) (http://postimg.cc/image/speppugpn/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2Fyg9hhbe3f%2FDSCF8374.jpg&hash=ff878f1b729fd8216d996cb05d7e97ad348941bb) (http://postimg.cc/image/yg9hhbe3f/)
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Know when to hold em and know when to fold em.
I've been 3 frames into a hive and have had to back out. Nothing gained by plunging ahead, there will always be a better day. Now if you have queens hatching or something, that's a different story.
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Concentrate the smoke and use it to heard the bees. smoke the bees out from around the #2 frame so it can be removed then pry the out side frame and remove it. then you have lots of room to remove and manipulate the frames. Another thing is when you go to grab a frame if you place your hand of fingers lightly over the bees the bees will leave and move out from under your fingers and hand. want to clear the bees off an area of comb lightly place your hand on the bees and they will move out of the way.
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Thanks all, lots of great advice. Learning as I go along.
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Usually when I get into the hives I have a specific amount of time to get the job done. In that situation they GET INSPECTED if they like it or not, BUT, I do a lot like Apis says and move as many bees away from the outside frames as I possibly can. Using HoneyBGone on a rag IN the smoker will move a LOT of bees quickly, but if used too much you may find 3/4 of the hive hanging off the front porch.
Obviously it would be better to come back when the bees are calmer, but I have found that often as fall approaches they dont GET calmer, so it would be a long wait.. I usually slide into my full suit and giggle as they bounce off the Ultra breeze...
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Yep ~ Agreed Scott, as a matter of fact my three hives and two nucs haven't been calm all summer. So I suit up and get the job done.
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Vincent, the replies above all have the wisdom of experience (frequently obtained from mistakes).
I found THIS (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h8Z5zn1CIw) video yesterday. It shows good basic manipulation techniques for a hive inspection (he isn't using an inner cover though, not many bees either). Dr. Wilson of the USDA Honey Bee Lab in Laramie, Wyoming (1976) taught me the same basic procedure and hive tool use, its the procedure to use.
Wearing at least a veil or bee jacket, use this procedure with Jen's tool for removing the first frame and, moving slowly, you should get through the inspection. On those days you should leave the bees alone, they will tell you right away.....be listening and watching. Think fast, move slow!
BTW, the queen can be on any frame in the hive, even out sunning herself on the front landing. Treat every frame like the queen could be on it, even look at the bottom of the inner cover until you see her, only then you know where she is and can work accordingly. HTH :-)
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Thank you Vincent, for the question. Thank you Iddee and Perry. I don't feel like a wimp for walking away from bad situation. 6 mediums tall and bees bearded all over everything. I walked away mid-afternoon and returned early evening and put the hive back together.
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This time of year I don't really inspect anymore. The risk of losing a queen outweighs any benefit of knowing what's going on in there. If you roll a queen now, you WILL lose the hive. If you miss something funny going on in the hive, you may or may not lose the hive. I monitor the weight by tipping the back of the hive, and I monitor the plastic varroa boards under the screen.
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for a hive overflowing with bees, I know that I'll get to look at one or two frames tops, so I skip the outside ones and go straight for a brood frame from the middle. That will tell me everything I need to know in about 30 seconds. With patience and no gloves, it's possible to pull a frame without squishing any. Closing the lid, however, will do in more than a few
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Again thanks everyone, and for the video which was excellent. Though his hive was pretty calm :)
I feel a lot more comfortable knowing that I have various options.
I don't really have a need to inspect them any further, so it's a problem for next year..
Is that it? Is the season really over... ugh
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I am kind of well know for being persistent and somewhat bone headed. Even in the worst of situations as long as the smoker stays lit and my armor doesn't leak I don't give up until the job is done. However if I kept bees in urban areas (ie lots of people or animals) I would not be so foolish.
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When I drive 15 miles one way to inspect hivs in a bee yeard I am going to inspect those hives considering fuel cost even this days a dollar lower than last year.
(1.I want to know if I have a queen, is she laying so there is no reason to be fooling around with outer frames.
There is where a bee brush is handy herding the bees away from the frame I want to look at. Is also easy to brush bees off the frame to get a look see at it.
Jens Idea of a frame gripper is also good advice.
;D Al
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Hi beeks.
As a new beek I finally saw what happens when the hive gets mad. ;-)
It's fine. It was cooler out, little bit of wind. But when you drag yourself to the apiary. Open the hive and realize that there aren't that many foraging. What do you do really? I guess my question is, when the bees are all over the frames, can't even pick one up without squishing a bunch of bees. They are flying all over, covering your hands etc. Do you keep chugging away at it? Or give up?
V
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk
Disclaimer: also new beek.
I find it helps to just calmly walk away from the hive for five minutes or so. When you come back, give them a few puffs of smoke and quietly go back to work. In my (limited) experience, at that point they've calmed down quite a bit. Rinse and repeat as needed. It works well for me.
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Being a new beek I was too inexperienced to know that I should just close it up and walk away, so I would persist with my inspection. I would puff a lot of smoke around myself and that seemed to back them down and away from me. But I did learn, they DO NOT like being brushed off the frames. I only use the brush if I absolutely have too.
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I agree les shake or bumping them off.
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That hive (of mine) is still full of bees. 6 mediums tall and my hanging scale maxed out (70lbs) on both sides.
Lots of bees come crawling up, onto the inner cover, when I lift the lid. The temperature in the high 30's and a loud PO'd hum. I can't tell where the bees aren't by listening (no stethoscope) and knocking. I'm hesitant to tear it down and investigate. Winter is almost here and scrambling the cluster might kill them. Any thoughts.
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With temps in the 30's I would not open them up.
If thats at night and you have 60's in the daytime then it wouldnt be bad to open them up when it was warm, so they have time to regroup before it gets back down close to freezing.
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if the temp is above 50 deg. F. the bees will not be clustered and it will not heart them to pull them apart. The bottom supper of 2 may be empty and if so should be removed. if you got 4 supers of honey one of two should be removed. Don't let fear and intimidation keep you from doing the fall inspection that should be done. You don't need to be pulling every frame, you can tell a lot by the weight and looking down the top and up from the bottom. see if it is all honey, areas of brood whether there are many bee in the super or are they just a few hanging out.
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It's a fear of screwing up and losing a colony, not fear of the bees, that is causing my concern. The forecasted highs are around 50 and the lows are high 30s, until the weekend then a slight warm up.
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You don't want to be rearranging the hive at this late date unless you find some major issues. One might be a frame of foundation that the bees have not built out yet in the center of the brood box or winter feed super. Something like this I would remove or move it to the outside edge out of where the bees will winter cluster. Having and leaving 6 supers to me is excessive. If the bees are right up at the top I would think that the bottom super or 2 may not have many bees in them. Leaving them in place when there are not enough bees to occupy them is an invitation for mice to build a winter nest, and in the spring for wax moths and small hive Beatles to invade before the colony has built up to reoccupy the space.