Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Pests and Diseases => Topic started by: Jen on May 15, 2022, 03:03:15 pm
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While I'm wading thru the Pests and Diseases section, have any of you used Hopgaurd 3? And what do think of Hopgaurd?
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I used the original Hopguard, It worked fair.. never used two or three because I started treating with OA. Have never needed anything else.
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I have used Hopguard, in the spring, a few years back. I don't remember if it was 3 or not. It worked fine. Others report they have not had good success with Hopguard.
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Reason I'm asking is, I've been using OA vap for over 15 years with great luck. My vaporizer is a Heilizer made in Canada and I now have their newest model which is terrific.
Two years ago early Fall, I get the mite explosion of the century. Five robust, healthy hives and Thousands of mites all of a sudden. I keep fresh sticky boards under all my hives and check them weekly. A seasoned bee buddy said to go into those mites with double guns, so I did. I didn't want to do FormicPro because the bees were already weekend by the mites so it could have killed too many bees. So I went with Apivar - 6 week treatment, plus an OA vap every 4 days until the mites were knocked out and past the mite breeding period of 21 days.
Seems the mite explosions or mite bombs can occur with how many mother mites there are in the hive, and how many daughters those mother mites produce. This factor is what can make a mite explosion.
That is when i thought the mites might be getting resistant to OA and I've been experimenting with different treatments so I can alternate spring and fall treatments.
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As I understand it, its not possible for them to become resistant to OA. OA does not kill by being ingested. Mite bombs can happen at any time, and its not usually from your own hive. A neighbors hive, a feral hive not being treated is overrun by mites, eventually the bees abscond and find a new place to live, and they take a LOT of those mites with them, straight to YOUR hives...
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'A neighbors hive, a feral hive not being treated is overrun by mites, eventually the bees abscond and find a new place to live, and they take a LOT of those mites with them, straight to YOUR hives...'
So, it's my understanding that absconds are not going to go into, and join another existing hive.
Then again, if the abscond is without a queen, maybe they would be allowed into another existing hive ... hmm
According this article I read this evening on "varroa-mite-reproduction.edu" It explained how the few mites that scoot into the drone cell right before the drone cell is capped... if all or most of those mites are mother mites and they birth daughters, who are going to get mated and become mother mites themselves... Holy Shmoly now you have an overload of mother mites all laying more daughter mites and on and on. And all at once there is an explosion mites.
So Lazy, I was under the same impression as you for Years. But I think I'm seeing a deeper science of mites now...
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I think drifting and robbing behavior play a big part in spreading mites and the diseases they vector.
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I think drifting and robbing behavior play a big part in spreading mites and the diseases they vector.
That's true. And the other thing to keep in mind is that bees that are foraging together on the same flower can easily transmit mites between them.
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Good morning Baker and 15th :) Exactly! however the casual daily transmission of transferring and exchanging mites is the norm so to speak. But when it comes to mite explosions and mite bombs when hundreds of mites are hatching daily, it has to happen within the reproductive cycle of the mites.
Oh and I would like to add that the Apivar and the hefty assault with the OA every 4 days worked out brilliantly! All the hives made it thru the winter ;D
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Good morning Baker and 15th :) Exactly! however the casual daily transmission of transferring and exchanging mites is the norm so to speak. But when it comes to mite explosions and mite bombs when hundreds of mites are hatching daily, it has to happen within the reproductive cycle of the mites.
Oh and I would like to add that the Apivar and the hefty assault with the OA every 4 days worked out brilliantly! All the hives made it thru the winter ;D
I don't want to speak for Bakers and Lazy, but the point I was trying to make is that if someone's mite-filled abscond leaves their hives and takes up residence close to yours, it can bring a big influx of mites to your area, which can contribute to overwhelming your bees.
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:yah:
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I agree with that as well :) when swarm season arrives, and I see that so many beekeepers, especially newbees, are catching swarms, I have to remind them they have to treat that swarm because you don't know where it came from. Inevitably! their swarm hives are almost dead by Fall. It's the newbees that have to learn the hard way about mites.
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I agree with that as well :) when swarm season arrives, and I see that so many beekeepers, especially newbees, are catching swarms, I have to remind them they have to treat that swarm because you don't know where it came from. Inevitably! their swarm hives are almost dead by Fall. It's the newbees that have to learn the hard way about mites.
I was no exception. :sad: I lost one of my first two hives to mites the first year and almost lost the second one, but treated them just in time to get them through the winter. I never underestimated them after that. :yes:
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Mee too. The first 3 years I killed a lot of bees because I had no idea what I was doing, in a county where I couldn't find another beekeeper to bother. Then I stumbled onto the this forum, the best thing that happened to my beekeeping muddle. These people helped explain soo much stuff over and over to me until I got it.
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And thats when we met Jaybird!!!! Chasing swarms in her jammies! :laugh:
Michael Palmer talks about MITE BOMBS and absconds in one of his videos about "natural" beekeepers and why it hurts ALL hives in the area when the bees are left to die from mites "naturally.
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:hijack:
I have gone on this rant before, but will reiterate it here...
The second you put those bees in a box, you are now responsible for them. There is no longer any "natural" to it.
Animal Husbandry must dictate that you treat these animals an keep them healthy. that includes putting feed out in spring to help, as well as fall to help them overwinter. Treating mites is also on that MUST list.
You wouldn't let cattle, horses, or more personably, a dog or cat suffer with a disease or parasite and die "naturally" without trying to help (or if you would, we don't have much to discuss), so why is this any different?
And worse, in this case your lack of responsibility does affect everyone around you as well.
End Rant.
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Wholeheartedly agreed.
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Okay. Hold on a sec. Lazy? All do respect brother, but "not possible for them to become resistant" to OA? Respectfully my friend, they said the same thing about Roundup. Ted
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As I understand it, its not possible for them to become resistant to OA. OA does not kill by being ingested. Mite bombs can happen at any time, and its not usually from your own hive. A neighbors hive, a feral hive not being treated is overrun by mites, eventually the bees abscond and find a new place to live, and they take a LOT of those mites with them, straight to YOUR hives...
Okay. Hold on a sec. Lazy? All do respect brother, but "not possible for them to become resistant" to OA? Respectfully my friend, they said the same thing about Roundup. Ted
Based on what I've read about OA, scientists aren't exactly sure how it kills mites, so whether it's prone to creating resistance is unclear. As such, it's recommended to rotate it with a different mite treatment, just in case.
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I am treating the 3 swarms I caught last month, I wish I had another place to put them away from my other hives til done, but don't.
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Hi Rast, curious what kind of treatment are you using these days?
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IIRC, what it comes down to.... is that to become resistant they would have to EAT it, or it would have to penetrate somewhere, and if they did that it would kill them. As I understand it........ its been a "few" years since I read about the research....
The OA gets into the mite through the soft lobes on its feet, that apparently remain moist, and it kills them... IF, enough of it also got into the bees system, it will also kill them. Since this does not happen, OR, does not happen to a majority of the bees, (With sublimation) is why they do not become immune... If it gets in, they die, that makes it hard to build immunity.
I DID ask a lot of questions about why it doesnt kill brood etc... I was told.. because it doesnt.... ???
The research at that time was being done over in Europe, where OA had been in use for over 20 years, and showed that it was still just as effective as it was 20 years earlier...
20 years.... I can't honestly say mites will NEVER become immune to it, but if it lasts as long over here I won't live long enough to deal with it.... However, using OA DRIP method, DOES kill bees, they clean it off themselves, and ingest it... I do not know if the mites do the same thing????
The last research I saw on OA as it was being tested over here, they were using it in a hive EVERY WEEK for months, with no noticeable mortality to the bees, but they had close to zero mites in those hives... I have been using it since well before it was legal to use in commercial apiaries, after I read the research from Europe and Asia. I will conceded that I cant say they CANT become immune to it, but like I said, from what I read, using the sublimation method it is very unlikely.
Sublimation is the transition of a substance directly from the solid to the gas state, without passing through the liquid state. Randy Oliver was one of the people testing it back then, and he adamantly opposed the DRIP method, and swore by the vapor method... Because with Drip they ingested it and it did cause some mortality.
If there are people who want to know more I will try to take the time to FIND all of that research and re post it, instead of just running off my faulty memory.
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Thanks lazy. Ive been wanting to mix things up as far as treatment goes for awhile now and am planning on OAV in late winter/early spring, probably mid march, and MAQS after honey harvest just to feel more confident about not building resistance. Ted
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P.S. Jen? Apologies for highjacking the thread. We now return to your regularly scheduled program. Ted
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I think Jen is tolerant of our rantings by now? ;D
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Good morning Ted and Lazy, actually I just now got back onto this thread for a reason. The short rants are good due to them bringing up other subjects that we obviously need to discuss.
I'm starting a new subject.. Oxalic Acid
Actually, what do you think of starting new subjects like: Oxalic Acid. MAQS and Formic Pro. Apivar. Hopgaurd. All being a subject on their own. What happens is the thread starts getting convoluted.
Also, some time has passed and there is more current info about each individual treatment nowadays. Like the last OA subject was from Lazy back in 2014.
I know that there are already threads back in the library of bee knowledge on Oxalic Acid, but frankly I don't have the time to wade thru 23 pages. I'd like to start fresh ;)
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Using OAV Jen
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There already were threads discussing these topics specifically the OA that is stickyed to this forum… as for the others, since they were a while ago, I’ll allow new threads on them O:-)
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Hi Zweefer, I don't know what you mean by stickyed?
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It is permanently stuck to the top of the board
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Oh oh! the little push in pins, I got it. Thanks