Worldwide Beekeeping
Beekeeping => Do-It-Yourself Plans and Prints => Topic started by: LazyBkpr on December 07, 2013, 11:46:35 pm
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I dont see anything on frames yet, so will post how I make mine..
I use foundation-less, but the same principle applies... More on that later...
One 12' 2 x 8 x 12 makes 49 top, and bottom bars.. Excluding knots and splits of course..
At the time of taking these pics I was using 1 x 1 top bars and 5/8 bottom bars.. I have since changes slightly to 7/8 top bars so i dont have to "shave" the shoulders...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/015.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/015.jpg.html)
The bar to the right is simply a 19 inch piece cut from the 2x material 7/8" wide.
Next is the same piece trimmed to 7/8 x 7/8 the piece trimmed off will become the bottom bar.
The next piece is showing how I trimmed the shoulders which I dont do now
The last two bars are after shaving the ends and cutting the bevel as well as trimming the bottom bar to 3/8 x 5/8 and 17 3/4 long. To shave the ends down, some folks use a router, I just use the table saw setting the guide to one inch from the outside of the blade, then lower the blade so it "leaves" 3/8 of an inch. Keep your fingers back, and gently SHAVE the wood away. I use a 60 tooth Diablo blade so it leaves a smooth finish. slide the bar in easy JUST touching the blade until it comes up against the guide. Then work it back and forth until your end is shaved.. flip the bar around and do the other side.. GREAT now 48 left to go!!! :mrgreen:
I do a pile of them all at once, set my stool beside the saw and go to work...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0240.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0240.jpg.html)
when the ends are shaved reset your table saw to 45 degrees and put the guide on the other side of the blade. Adjust it in, and the blade up so that you JUST miss the shaved section and the blade protrudes from the top very slightly, and run the bar through.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0244.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0244.jpg.html)
Flip it around and run it through again.. You should have a perfectly centered point on the bar now... and that bar is finished.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0245.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0245.jpg.html)
These bars were all cut from garbage 2x material I got for free;
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0237-1.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0237-1.jpg.html)
Your looking at about 40 top and bottom bars cut from scrap that cost me nothing.. Occasionlay, even in wood you buy you hit Knots and splits as the broken bar on the right shows... Its just part of the process.. deal with it and keep on rolling!
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0239.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0239.jpg.html)
the frames done this way should fit together snugly.. this is a frame put together, no nails, no glue.. it fits snugly together AS IS, and this is the goal when your making them;
For the side bars....
cut a piece of 2 x 8, 2 x 10, 2 x 12... You CAN use 2 x 4's if thats all you have but the wider material makes more end plates for less work... ANyhow, cut the 2x material to length.. I use mediums exclusively. this will work for shallows, but cutting the kerf for deeps you will need another method..
I plane the blocks of 2x material to 1 3/8 inch in my Dewalt planer. I try to do several of these at a time as well..
I raise my table saw blade all the way up, and set the guide to shave the side of the block standing on end. I take 1/8 of an inch off each side of the block usually in about two or three passes on each side, until the bottom measures 1 1/8 inch. Its easier and quicker than it sounds.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0250.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0250.jpg.html)
I set my router table up with a 5/8 bit, and center the bit for the narrower side of the block and run it through. Try to make sure it is centered as best possible, because this setting will also determine the width of your top notches..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0235.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0235.jpg.html)
Once the bottom is done, flip the block and run the top through. Turn it around, and run the other side through.. if done right the top notch should be 7/8, and your top bars will fit snugly without splitting the side plates..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0236.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0236.jpg.html)
Now I reset my table saw to about 3/8" or JUST slightly over and adjust the blade up to just clear the top of the block, and begin running the 2x through using a push stick..
The last two cuts can be tricky, USE CARE or throw away the last piece. Always make sure your blade is SHARP.. more on that later too..
I put a bucket at the back of the saw and just use the push stick to run the pieces off the back of the table into the bucket.
I built a jig to assemble my frames.. will get a pic of it soon... now all thats left is TO assemble them. Glue the notches in the side plates, press the bottom bars in and nail..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0233.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0233.jpg.html)
Continued below... can ONLY post ten URL's :(
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Those look really good!!
You guys have just about go t me talked into making frames. Too bad 100 deep and 100 shallows just showed up yesterday.
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Nice looking frames do you wire and extract the honey from the frames or do you crush and strain for processing the honey?
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I use all mediums, No wires and I do extract /radial extractor. NEW combs I try to rotate down to give them time to harden and make sure all four sides are attached.. I havent had a blowout.. YET... Takes a little more care but hasnt been a problem to this point.
Updating Pics now!
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I use all mediums, No wires and I do extract /radial extractor. NEW combs I try to rotate down to give them time to harden and make sure all four sides are attached.. I havent had a blowout.. YET... Takes a little more care but hasnt been a problem to this point.
Updating Pics now!
Would that be the point you're holding up in the picture? ;) :lol:
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Continued from Above!!!!!
The goal is to get everything to fit snugly without being too tight.. THIS frame is just pressed together no nails, no glue.. this is your goal when cuttinmg the parts;
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0249.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0249.jpg.html)
I use a bostitch brad nailer and 3/4" brads. two nails in each end.. flip the jig, glue and press the top bars in. two nails in top on each side, then cross nail through the side plate into the pointed section of the top bar for added strength.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/009.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/009.jpg.html)
Pull the frames off the jig and set aside to dry....
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0224.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0224.jpg.html)
Everything you read, and watch on YouTube etc, shows people painting melted wax on the frames to prepare them to use.. I used to do this.. I have also used frames with NO wax, and they still get drawn out.. I was busy melting wax and painting, when another fellow i know stopped in to chat and have a beer.. (I have a fridge in my shop.. NECESSARY SHOP EQUIPMENT!) and he asked me WHY I wanted to waste so much wax? he took a block of unmelted wax and RUBBED it on the point of the top bar, leaving a nice layer of wax on it... I have RUBBED ever since, and use less than a tenth the amount of wax now, and the bees still seem to take the hint that says.. PUT COMB HERE.. so were both happy!!
If you are CHEAP, like I am.. you will push your luck with dull blades.. I use extra care when I know my blade is dull, but I still occasionally ruined a top or bottom bar.. until.. One day, using old 2 x 8's out of an old barn I scrounged wood from.. the old dry piece I was cutting the 45's into on a top bar splintered against the dull blade, and blew back.. it hurt, i pulled my hand back, and looked at my finger.. with a three inch splinter of wood through the tip of my finger...
I grabbed it to pull it out.... i havent come that close to wetting my pants in years!!!!
I ended up using my side cutters to cut the skin away and LIFT the sliver of wood out.... then i taped up my finger...
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/Speared.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/Speared.jpg.html)
I put a NEW blade in the saw, and had no more problems...
Finger is almost healed, but it took some nerve damage to the tip.. cant feel where it healed.. so BE SAFE, and DONT be cheap like me!!!
Making frames is time consuming, mostly making and shaving the top bars. If you have little time, then BUYING them is your best bet.. I have the time, and enjoy doing it, and it saves me money.. Buying a brand new 2 x 8 x 12 is eight or nine dollars, so the frames end up costing me about twenty cents each to make, unless I can get free wood!!!
if you want to use foundation, instead of cutting the 45 in the top bar, you would leave it flat, and cut a groove in the center of it, and a groove in the center of the bottom bars. VERY doable if you have the time and tools!
This frame is still flat, it just lacks the groove for the plastic to fit into;
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0243.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0243.jpg.html)
Good view of missing pinky.. Might make Yall THINK aqbout being SAFE!!!!
If there is anything you don't understand from my overzealous explanation, please ask and I will try to answer!!
Hope this helps!
Scott
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:shock: :shock: :shock:
Now I feel bad for makin fun of of your first owie!!!
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:mrgreen:
No worries.. My hands and knees are beat to hades from too many years of abuse as a Mechanic, building houses etc.. Thankfully my "mean" wife has a masters degree and is making REAL money so I can stay home and tend to her "LIST"... Although.. I think i would not work half as hard if I had a "real" job....
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Pics I couldnt put in above;
Trimming the bottom bars to 17 3/4.. My Radial arm saw died so I made a jig to do it on the miter saw;
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0246.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0246.jpg.html)
Top and bottom bars finished about 40 of them all cut out of scrap wood I scrounged.. so thats about 40 frames that were very near free.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0247.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0247.jpg.html)
A close up of how the joint should fit if you do it right.
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0242.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0242.jpg.html)
and a closeup of my frame jig... I built mine backwards compared to how most do it.. I will probably rebuild it the other way, as getting the frames off would be easier if the inside boards were removable... this DOES work, but could be better now that i have seen how other folks did it!!
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0234.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0234.jpg.html)
Hives and frames ready to be put to use this spring.. the cypress boxes WERE all deeps that got cut down.. it leaves me with 4 deeps left to get removed and cut down, then I'll be ALL mediums..
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/KnitePrince/DSCN0225.jpg) (http://http://s14.photobucket.com/user/KnitePrince/media/DSCN0225.jpg.html)
One day I'll figure out how to do a video to save space!!!
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Just my opinion, but I would keep the last 4 deeps with frames. Murphy's law says if you cut the last one, you will need one shortly thereafter.
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Good Point Iddee... Me and Murphy have had a few arguments over the years....
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Save those pieces you cut off! They will turn one of your mediums back into a deep in a pinch. Good for feeder rims, quilt boxes etc. etc. That is if you did not chop the extra off with the side of a round mouth shovel! :lol:
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I tried making a few frames (once) and somehow kept getting the grain running the wrong way and the side bars fell apart for the fun of it. Some of these pics sort of explain why I had that happen. :oops:
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well.. dont feel bad... the first side bars I ever tried to make I did that exact same thing.. they looked SO NICE.. but would crumble in your hands. It took a few moments for the light to go on in my head.. been good since then.. I grew up a mechanic, so working wood didnt come naturally and I had to re invent the wheel several times.
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Great thread your pictures and instructions are helpful in letting others know what is involved and how to make their own frames.
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Excellent. Thanks LazyBkpr!
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Thanks for having this info here as well as on your site (Which is where i was lead to thanks to you).
I made my first batch this afternoon, and they turned out great! I made deeps, and to get the 1/8 cut, I used a dado blade on my radial arm saw. took a couple of passes, and it was done. I think I'll do the medium frames the same way, as it seems like an awful lot of blade to have up and cutting the way you suggest :)
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Uh Oh Zweef! Now I know your hooked when you start building your own wooden ware. Have Fun buddy!
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Good deal Zweefer. With a little ingenuity you could use the dado blade as a planer to shave the 1.5" boards down to 1 3/8 etc... I have dado blades, but they are pretty expensive, both to buy and to have sharpened. I have no idea how many frames I have made.. over a thousand of my own and probably that many more I have sold.
I have had a few folks complain of warping as the newly cut frames start to dry.. I have had a few warp, usually near knots. Good dry wood completely eliminates the problem. If you can get boards from old houses, barns etc they will make better frames with less warping.. It seems Menards, lowes etc does not check the moisture content, they buy and resell what they get.They claim their boards are dried to 12 to 15% moisture content, and had no comment when I said that their boards had over 22% moisture.
Buying boards from a local lumber yard has helped quite a bit with warpage, but usually costs about two dollars more per board.
I need to do a better vid of making the frames... probably wont happen until it starts getting cold again.
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Thanks for giving me courage to attempt some frames! They are up to $1.10 at ML now.....
:-)
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In deciding that I was going to increase my apiary the price of frames was not over looked. at that time they were $1.00 each.. 1000 frames at 1 dollar each is pretty easy to figure out the cost. If you use foundation thats another dollar each per frame..
I am WAY too cheap to pay 2 grand for frames.. It just takes TIME to make them... When winter arrives, it gives me something to do related to my bees. I can dream of spring arriving while I make them. At .20 cents each it makes buying foundation a little less bitter tasting.. or you can really cheap out and not put any foundation in them... Yeah, I considered CheapBkpr and CheezyBkpr... Then my wife called me a Lazy XXX.. laying in the grass, beer in hand... sweat soaked shirt and pants, covered in sawdust from putting the rafters in HER barn and I thought.. yeah... Once I get my bees going I am going to sit and watch THEM do all the work.. so its been LazyBkpr ever since.
Do like Zweef did Lb.. modify to suit your own needs/tools and time. Watching the bees draw out frames you built with your own hands is very gratifying.
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that .20 isn't an exaggeration either! I was able to make 28 frames (14 med and 14 deep) for 5.92. (.21 each) as for time, once i got the first stack done, (figuring out the system) it barely took any time at all. plus i love to make sawdust, so its a win win!
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I plan to spend quality time this winter building extra equipment. I don't have time.. or money... So the time is far less expensive. Besides, sleep is over-rated!
I'll be able to get most, if no all, my lumber for free. Just have to pass the rough-sawn through the surfacer a million times before I can use it. GET YOUR SAWDUST HERE!
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Good thread here boys. Winters are long and pictures of Scott bundled up in his camo coat and boots staring out into the bleak horizon.. well, it's just sad :sad:
We have our garage set up for any project. Tv, sound system, refrig stocked with beer or whatever is your drinking pleasure from pepsi to cinnamon whiskey which will really warm your toes, snacks.... I love working out there ;D
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I was going to take on making frames myself but then had another thought.
I know a guy where we used to live (Lunenurg) that works as a carpenter for someone. I remember he had an old "box mill", making fish boxes and gift boxes. He had so little work he rarely ran it and had to resort to hiring himself out to make ends meet. I called him and talked to him about making frames, and he drove up 2 days later. We had a good discussion and he said he was sure he could make them. I sent him home with a couple, and 3 weeks late he showed up with 4 new frames that were almost completely indistinguishable from the store bought ones. I was actually quite surprised at how good they were.
I told him that if he could maintain the quality (1,000 frames that are off by 1/8" is a lot of kindling) I would buy them and use them in my operation (as I lose frames with each nuc I sell) and would also market them with my own supplies at a slight markup. He was happy with the arrangement.
As things slow down outside for him the fall, he will start cranking out frames and I will buy and hold.
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When winter arrives, it gives me something to do related to my bees. I can dream of spring arriving while I make them.
Here, here! No talk of W____er! :P
....and, you must promise...pinky swear?
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.postimg.cc%2Fsvcu64zzz%2Fpinky_swear.jpg&hash=7ba745b32f60f106df448cef5b81ab9cc81b4672) (http://postimg.cc/image/svcu64zzz/)
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Sorry Blue.. Hope your psychologist is not really expensive...
Perry, sounds like a good deal for both of you. I just made 80 frames with grooves cut in them for plastic foundation for that very reason. Going to have to save my pennies and get some equipment thats a little better than Menards cheapest before W_____r arrives.
Being ensconced inside once again.. I need to figure out every way possible to keep myself from going insane. Making lots of frames helps!
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Revisiting frames today..
I attempted to make a jig for the router to cut the step in the end of the frame.. it worked as well as using the saw, maybe a little quicker..
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1.postimg.cc%2F9vzrjptkb%2FDSCF2028.jpg&hash=d17f2bd2b981ee589e40708953a3f5e9722001d9) (http://postimg.cc/image/9vzrjptkb/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs22.postimg.cc%2Fgarfzutbx%2FDSCF2029.jpg&hash=c904523dd35761f5b45f7acded0e9a0fa5088b7d) (http://postimg.cc/image/garfzutbx/)
After running about 80 top bars ( = 160 ends) the cheap router but I use was beginning to show signs that it was rapidly degrading, so I finished the rest on the saw..
90 ish bars after loss due to warpage and knots.. These are WEDGE top bars.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.cc%2Fbqeq9r9ft%2FDSCF2030.jpg&hash=385e471e5a137f82c2078b1495eea5527441a654) (http://postimg.cc/image/bqeq9r9ft/)
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs7.postimg.cc%2Fe23e3vtyv%2FDSCF2033.jpg&hash=101fa801a13a86353194488add760cf85a6265cc) (http://postimg.cc/image/e23e3vtyv/)
Then I shaved down the bottom bars and cut the slots in those. Can you tell the difference between the commercial bottom bar and mine?
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs23.postimg.cc%2F3zbh1hg8n%2FDSCF2034.jpg&hash=f2e71bf254c8fdfbd6e3f4394be3aa507cafb3c6) (http://postimg.cc/image/3zbh1hg8n/)
There is actually only one commercial bottom bar in the picture, it is the second one FROM the right. I make the slot slightly wider, and it truly pays off when trying to put wired wax in..
The last picture is of a commercial frame (standing) and a frame I made completely myself, minus the wired foundation of course, but thats next, trying some non stamped foundation to see what the bees think of it.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs9.postimg.cc%2Fv0apw57vf%2FDSCF2031.jpg&hash=103ed4e35cf6db2eedc2275238471fbd371431b5) (http://postimg.cc/image/v0apw57vf/)
Keep your bees happy!
Scott
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Thanks Scott, i may try making some now that i've seen how it's done. 8) Been buying frames from a club member, both deep and med. frames $1.00 ea. and they are put together. Don't know if i can beat that? Jack
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I guess with the money you're saving, it can be spent on beer if visitors show up? :)
I think you'll end up ditching the router for that type of work, I think it may be asking a lot of it.
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Beer? Jack isnt too far away.. 5 1/2 hour drive!!
Better pictures etc on the website Jack, some vids too if you can forgive the poor camera operation and editing.. Have not gotten around to fixing those vids yet.
http://outyard.weebly.com/frames.html
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Ok, Lazy, between your post/site and another I found. I am going to give frames a try.
Now you have me wanting a planner, do you use yours often?
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The only thing I use it for is shaving the 1 1/2 inch (2x10's etc) boards down to 1 3/8. I couldnt justify it if I didnt use it to make so many frames. Pretty much all the woodworking equipment cant be justified for someone that only has four hives. OR, someone that does not have the aptitude for running power equipment.
ALL it would take to RUIN all that savings would be ONE mishap that sent you to the hospital...
However, if you have the aptitude, and need several hives the savings is worth it.
I have 2500 Frames in service. PLUS the hives and nucs all those frames fit into... I have saved well in excess of ten thousand dollars by making it all myself... That justified the expense for the equipment. It will continue to pay for itself as I sell hives, Nucs and replace worn out woodenware..
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I make everything myself except for the frames and foundation.
Just finished cutting around 50 boxes I have to put together now. I will have to get frames and foundation for them.
I have everything but a planner I think I can pick a good one up on craigslist for a decent price.
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Top bars for the frames;
They all start out the same, shaped like the one on the left. For Foundationless I shave the sides to a point. For plastic They get a groove, and for wax they get the removable wedge.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs29.postimg.cc%2F4skvea4yb%2FDSCF2056.jpg&hash=2cad88657269871331aa288d45b8c909f00f1965) (http://postimg.cc/image/4skvea4yb/)
First time I managed to get a picture of all of them together before I nailed them into a frame......
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Nice work Scott. :eusa_clap: Wish I had a heated shop and I'd be trying those for sure.
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My shop is yours. Bring that stack of wood with you!
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Hey, will regular tightbond glue work ok on frames since they are inside the hive?
Guy on craigslist has some gallons for 10 bucks.
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I have not tried it. I have used tightbond II and III. I have used Gorilla wood glue, and I have used Elmers wood glue.. They all worked, but I "seem" to have the best bond with tightbond 2 or 3 so have stuck with them. I have not tried the standard tightbond..
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Those gallon jugs have a shelf life. I like to use them up in a years time.
12 months @ 70F
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any glue works yankee, and regular titebond..... but what tefer said, shelf life. i have used all sorts of glue, titebond 2 is what i usually use now, but have found, over time, in bigger jugs, the glue doesn't like to come out......... :D
and yes i stored it in the house during winter months..... ;)
so maybe check the jugs before buying?
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Yea, that's a good thought, I doubt I can us a gallon on just frames. Be better to get 3 and use it on both.
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I have a gallon of titebond 3, 3/4 full, you can have for a dollar. You can slice it up and use a disc at a time. Like tefer says, shelf life.
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pretty much!............. :D
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Funny,
I bought a gallon of 3 and it's already empty.
No moss growing on me. ;D
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I've never seen titebond III in gallon cans or jugs? i buy the squeeze bottles, it doesn't have a chance to harden in my shop. 8) Jack
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Lowes has started carrying 3 in gallon size
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I was tired of buying the smaller titebond III squeeze bottles so I bought a gallon and filled up the empty ones I'd saved. When I start on the boxes I'll go through it quick. 2,000 feet of pine should work out to 140 deeps and 140 mediums. :)
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Man O Man,
Surely you not gonna try and get that all done this year?
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No Kidding Yankee! I guess one ton of honey a season isn't enough for Perry :D
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Well don't forget that I also sell some. I also have plenty of boxes that need to be swapped out. I had this crazy idea at one time that it would be nice to have plenty of extras so that anything that needed a bit of paint or work could be swapped out and have it's life extended.
I found myself short on mediums last year so I will definitely need more of those. I had to extract and replace as quickly as possible when it would have been much easier to just put another super on.
If I have a friend stop by when I start, it really doesn't take all that long. Each step requires set-up time but once that's done and if you can keep at it, it goes quickly (except the painting part).
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The jointer I have;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs17.postimg.cc%2Ffomefmoaz%2FDSCF2067.jpg&hash=020c0430863dfe4de706b032acb56768b66aaf00) (http://postimg.cc/image/fomefmoaz/)
Its old, rusty and loud, but it was CHEAP at a yard sale, and it REALLY works nicely.. adjust the front table down 1/8 of an inch
and clamp the plywood block in place to use as a stop then shave away..
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Absolutely perfect picture of how it should be done! :photos:
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My dad purchased a table saw and a jointer from a friend of his years ago. I don't think he has used the jointer at all. Guess I will be.
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It's Saturday, now you've finally got time to build some things for yourself.
Strangely, all your buddies have showed up to " shoot the bull" on your time.
Hitting the switch on the jointer/shaper, sends them all scurrying for their vehicles fast.
Ours sounds like a airplane. Loudest machine in the wood shop.
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Surprised they didn't drink all your cool refreshing beverages and watch you work! ;D
I will be making one of those jigs from that video that you posted.
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Here's a link for more compact unit that does one box at a time. The first I built.
Thanks go to Robo for his design.
http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/downloads/beekeeping/FrameAssemblyJig.pdf
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Tefer2, What thickness of lumber did you use?
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The jointer I have;
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs17.postimg.cc%2Ffomefmoaz%2FDSCF2067.jpg&hash=020c0430863dfe4de706b032acb56768b66aaf00) (http://postimg.cc/image/fomefmoaz/)
Its old, rusty and loud, but it was CHEAP at a yard sale, and it REALLY works nicely.. adjust the front table down 1/8 of an inch
and clamp the plywood block in place to use as a stop then shave away..
Great tip :yes: Thanks LB
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Tefer2, What thickness of lumber did you use?
Just standard 1 by, 3/4 thick boards
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Great instructions, Scott! I've read over this a few times and have checked out the more thorough explanation on your site. I'll be taking advantage of your method, hopefully, this week! I even ordered (below) to help! Should arrive in the next day, or so... I hope! As an added bonus... I got it for 55.3% OFF the original price!!! I wanted one for a couple of other projects... but it's the bees that pushed me to finally buy one.
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fc.shld.net%2Frpx%2Fi%2Fs%2Fi%2Fspin%2Fimage%2Fspin_prod_816500312%3Fwid%3D800%26amp%3Bhei%3D800%26amp%3Bop_sharpen%3D1&hash=0a4116f97dd2b801019c3ef6fabe54b9f9ae9700)
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Ooooooo shiney!!!
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Scott,
I'm nearly done with my first round of 49. I bought 2 2x8x10s. Cut one to all 19" pieces, then cut one 19" piece off the second. The remainder of the second to all 9 1/8" for deep. This is my first stab at this, so I expect it will take a little longer... But I'm curious as to how long, either per frame or per ~50. I'm thinking that by time I'm done, it will average about 3.6 minutes/frame. But I'm not entirely sure, yet.
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I've never timed it, but am making more this weekend... I'll let you know.
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I have never timed myself. It is not the time I spend on the work that matters, it is the money I save by not buying frames at two dollars each, or more. I try to do them 100 at a time and would guess it takes me about ten hours to do 100 of them with foundation installed. I could of course speed that up considerably if I didnt answer my phone, and no one came by to have a beer, and if I worked harder at it...
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I have never timed myself. It is not the time I spend on the work that matters, it is the money I save by not buying frames at two dollars each, or more. I try to do them 100 at a time and would guess it takes me about ten hours to do 100 of them with foundation installed. I could of course speed that up considerably if I didnt answer my phone, and no one came by to have a beer, and if I worked harder at it...
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: But then it wouldn't be as much fun either.
While it does hamper production, I always welcome most of the interruptions. It can be mind numbing work at times.
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Well... I'm still waitin for my new router table to arrive (should be next week), but one of my orders came in! This was another great deal... I had about $6 in rewards points with Sears so I only paid $16 for the two!
(https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1211.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc424%2FCpnObvious%2FBees%2F96A60A28-F395-4157-BE17-5A05F8206B4A.jpg&hash=8894c242ee1d9ebb80e36debdf1fc9130dec9e06)
This will help make life a little easier. I also think I'll end up using the band saw to cut the sides. That way there's virtually no waste. We shall see how it goes!
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Well, had a change of plans... After making an attempt to use the band saw to cut the sides and having a bit too much inconsistency, I decided to rip them on the table saw. I only have a 1/4" band on the band saw, maybe if I had a 1/2" band? The 1/4" seemed to wander a bit.
I would like to thank you for your instructions again, though! My first round of 40 is done. They are clearly my first stab at it and some flaws exist... But they'll work perfectly fine. Thank you very much for such clear directions to follow!
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unless your going to sell them, all you need is functional!
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What he said... My bees never complained with mine.