Yes you did fine Just be aware of her need for places to lay with each inspection and adjust frames accordingly. A super full of honey does the queen no good at this time of year. but divide the colony moving 1/2 to the new colony and both hives will be in good shape.
Points to remember a good queen will lay a good solid 10 to 12 frames of brood. The Colony likes to have honey and pollen on the outsides of the cluster so the outside 1 or 2 frames will be stores leaving the center frames for the brood. In a 10 frame that is 6 frames ,in a 8 frame it will shrink down to 5. the bees will generally not store as much on the outside in a narrower hive. This being said we want the bees to store the surplus nectar up in the honey supers, not in the brood nest. Hives like to have healthy drone populations I like to move the frames with larger areas of drones to the outside placing better combs or foundation toward the center for the queen.
Hive Population Dynamics
In a hive the bee population will cover 3 more frames than what the queen is laying in. this is why bee population is critical to the hive build up and the amount of brood in the colony. Reading the brood. I think it was Iddee and Lee posting about 3-6-12 or the multiplier of 1-2-4: 3-days for eggs, 6-days for open brood, 12-days sealed brood. Or if the queen is allowed to lay at her full capacity, in that she has frames to lay in, and the population of bees to support her full laying capabilities. So every 1 egg you see in a cell, you will see 2 cells with open larva, and 4 cells that are capped brood. Projecting what you are seeing in the hive by the amount of capped brood over the next 12 days the capped brood will emerge and when it does each frame of capped brood will provide enough bees to cover 2 additional frames. The open cells will emerge over the following 9 days. By observing what is in the hive you can anticipate the need of the bees in the coming weeks in regards for space and growth of the colony.
