They don't build them like this anymore.

[apisbees]

Came across this ad for an old Galvanized honey extractor on eBay. You can buy a shiny new stainless steel one for less than this one will cost you by the time you paint it with camcoat and try to put together a variable speed motor drive for it. But you need to marvel at the ingenuity in it'd design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bee-Keepers-Look-VINTAGE-3-PANEL-HAND-CRANK-HONEY-EXTRACTOR-/351803861772

On the out side it looks like any old Galvanized extractor


It's 3 frame and has the 3 inserts to  support the framed placed in the extractor tangently


The beauty in design is the drum the 3 inserts fit into to support the frames.


After extracting remove the frame supports, dump your capping into the drum, and spin the honey out of the cappings. These where designed as an extractor and capping spinner in one.


Now stick with me. 2 modifications I would do.
1- Adapt to an electric motor with a variable speed drive.
Take one from that treadmill you no longer use the older with the least features the better. All you want is on off, and the veritable speed.
2 - Adapt it so you could extract medium frames radially.
It would defiantly hold 12 medium frames I think it would hold 15 possibly even as many as 18 frames at a time. Would have to do the math to figure it out for sure. All it would take is a support in the bottom of the extractor to match the length of the end of the top bars at about 5 " away from the out side of the tub. And spacers or pins around the tub to hold the top bars in position while loading and spinning.

If I didn't already have 3 extractors and lived a lot closer and if it was in a little better condition (Inside has lost its galvanizing) I WOULD BE TEMPTED!
I admire the design though. Even to install a fixed speed motor and just use it as a capping spinner.

[Some Day]

Ok, you talked me into it.

[apisbees]

I think it is a little high in price for it's condition You have to wire brush it and camcost it. just to use it as a hand crank 3 frame
This is what it will cost for one that you only need to bolt the legs onto.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-3-Frame-Stainless-Steel-Honey-Extractor-Honey-Oil-15-Inch-Diameter/301269460152?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D00cf14e0d0e34df19a416c7b196b7314%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D351803861772
I would offer about 1/2

[Some Day]

I was thinking about doing an electrolysis rust removal dip and then doing a powder coat baked finish.  I have a couple of electric motors laying around here that I may be able to adapt.  I'm retired, it would give me something to tinker with.

[apisbees]

You will need to use a veritable frequency drive or a dc motor with a speed controller board to get the veritable speed cause you want to start off slow and increase the speed as more of the honey flows out of the frames. If you don't have one kicking around, A treadmill will have all the salvage parts you need for it. I have seen old ones go for under 20 bucks at auction.
Go to a scrap metal or recycling center and probably get the parts for $5. Put a wanted will haul away ad in the free classifieds and you will get a call to take it away for free. You don't need a lot of torque, a 1/6 hp will give you all you need.

[LazyBkpr]

The older electric motors with brushes are more adaptable to being regulated by a rheostat than the newer motors...
   Camcoat sticks pretty good, I am (so far) quite happy with the stuff. I painted my big AI ROOT extractor with it on the inside and its doing well.
   I would bet that the galvanized extractor is heavier than the new stainless model you linked, and will be easier to mage while spinning it up.. granted, it doesnt LOOK like it has any cast metal to add weight, but back then, they were made of REAL metal, rather than the pop can thin stainless the new ones have...
   At the VERY worst, if that old Galvy extractor is refurbished it will bring more than it will in its current shape... ALSO, there is also the possibility someone would buy it for decoration AS IS for twice to three times that money.   I have had a few extractors, and have never had any issue selling them...   I came up with an old galvanized two frame extractor that you could reach in and flip the basket the frame was in to the other side... I payed 80 dollars for it, and sold it for 150 three days later... my mother was a little miffed at me.. come to find out she wanted it for Deco too....

[apisbees]

Lazy Have you made the bottom plates and tried it at spinning capping out yet?
Newer brushless motors require a veritable frequency drive They are getting reasonable in price but are still $120 for a small one.

[LazyBkpr]

No I have not YET, but it is on the list of things to do Apis.  Should be pretty easy to do if I can ever get around to it..

   All I know is that a Brand new motor would not run my extractor if I used a rheostat,, it TRIED and hummed Loudly....  Putting an Older motor on it allowed it to work perfectly.. I have since removed the rheostat as unnecessary and run it as was originally intended off of the leather drive wheel.  I did not take the time to read up on the WHY of it, but did see other posts mentioning the issue of varying the speed of a brushless motor...
   Hoping to get more done in the honey room and wood shop this winter. If I get the plates made I will get pics!

[apisbees]

On a rheostat you are adjusting the current that is allowed to get to the motor. It works well with brush types motors, Like electric drills. On brushless motors the use of a VFD dose not limit the current to the motor but adjusts the Hz frequency that the power is allowed to the motor at. In North America our power is provided at 60 Hz In Europe It is at 50 Hz when you look at the motor mane plate often times the RPM is different for the different Hz. A VFD allows the user to change the Hz frequency of the power supplying the motor, thus changing the speed but allowing the motor to draw all the current it needs.
All the above being said VFD work better on 3 PH motors, most 1 PH motors either have mechanical rpm start winding circuits or use start and run capacitors. so the number of 1PH motors that it is suitable for is limiting.

[LazyBkpr]

I did not know that!! Learned something today! TY Apis!