Author Topic: DIY 8 Frame Coates Style Nuc Plans (Read 27052 times)

blueblood · « **on:** February 24, 2014, 09:54:37 pm »

G3 and I thought an 8-frame Coates Style nuc box would be better for some swarm catches and swarm traps. After speaking with Robo and DLMKA, who both collaborated on putting something together on a previous occasion, came up with this link from Robo:

http://hoibees.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Coates8FrameMediumNucPlans.pdf

Thanks DLMKA, Robo and Mr. Coates!

DLMKA · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2014, 10:03:24 pm »

These are pretty handy boxes, I have 10 of the mediums that I stack up (upper story was trimmed down for bee space) for wintering. The other two got torched after coming back from a trap-out with a SHB infestation. Internal volume is just a little more than a 5-frame deep but there aren't many good options for medium nucs out there.

G3farms · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2014, 10:13:43 pm »

These are mediums, was looking for deeps myself.

DLMKA · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2014, 10:16:52 pm »

I'm not sure you can get 4, 8-frame deeps out of a sheet of plywood. Robo has the cut sheet software, It wouldn't be hard to combine the two sets of plans together and get dimensions for an 8-frame deep.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #4 on:** February 28, 2014, 02:49:08 pm »

I like 3/4 boards for the sides because it gives me something to screw the top to without splitting the plywood, They feel stronger, warp less and last longer.
One 12 foot 1 x 8 will make two boxes with enough for another end left over. One sheet of plywood makes 14 top/bottoms if you cut square. So even with boards, the cost of making one is $7.50 not counting glue, screws etc. I feel that the boards will hold up longer than the plywood sides.
so about $2.50 each more expensive (if using 1/2 inch plywood) less cutting, less handling of 4x8 sheets..
Not arguing against using plywood, just pointing out what I liked better after trying both. Plywood Nuc's and I have not had a fabulous relationship.

blueblood · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2014, 07:57:11 pm »

Good point Lazy. Before I re-invent the wheel, did you just increase your measurements by 1/4" all around? Am I thinking right?

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #6 on:** March 04, 2014, 11:58:19 pm »

Yes more or less Blue.. if your using 3/8 ply you have to increase by another 3/8 etc.. Just keep in mind the inside dimensions have to remain the same. I often come across 1" thick boards.. Did you know that a 1 x 8 used to actually BE 1 inch by 8 inches?? Now, who would have thought up such a silly thing!!??

blueblood · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2014, 08:18:57 am »

Right on. Well, I am heading out to the Home Depot today (playground for men) and pick up some lumber for making some stuff today. I would have started making sawdust a couple weeks ago but the weather has not been nice. I am tempted to try a few solid nucs. The plywood nucs work out great as for price but the wood does warp. I only notice it on the lids thought. I put a thin layer of glue on the edges before I paint them to help water proof them a little. I have considered making the lids entirely or partially out of solid wood to help. If I leave a 1/8" gap on the two cleats that are glued on either side of the bottom of the lid, it does account from some of the changes in the wood.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2014, 08:41:50 am »

Bought wood for two orders yesterday at Menards. Just under 16 bucks for 1/2 plywood and just under 6 bucks for 12' 1 x 8 boards. At those prices it doesn't pay me to go disassemble an old shed or barn for the boards.
Local lumberyard charges 26 a sheet for the plywood and 14 for the 1x8's I WANT to buy my wood from them, and usually do if I need one sheet of plywood or a couple of boards.. but when I have to buy a couple hundred dollars worth of wood its just too much.. Catch 22 going on.. I hate the big chain stores, but the local stores can't compete on purchasing power.. Needs to be a law that a licensed business can BUY for the same price no matter the volume.. THEN you would see small town America revived as never before.

uhh, OK, back top my coffee....

blueblood · « **Reply #9 on:** March 05, 2014, 09:03:34 am »

Lazy for President!

blueblood · « **Reply #10 on:** March 05, 2014, 10:56:22 pm »

Lazy, how are you making those nuc boxes out of 8" lumer? I messed around this afternoon making a nuc out of 3/4 wood and discovered a 12" would be necessary. Unless, you laminate like I did with scrap lumber using my Kreg jig. Here is a link showing my work at reply #19: http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php/topic,599.15.html

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #11 on:** March 05, 2014, 11:05:24 pm »

Just replied to your post. I use all Mediums Blue, so my Nuc's are mediums as well. 6 5/8 instead of 9 5/8

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #12 on:** March 07, 2014, 11:01:11 pm »

Blue.. NUC"S!!!!

Old Nuc's new Nucs, fixed nuc's and repainted nuc's! about ten more to build, then to see if I can fill half of them before the end of July!

I have to remember that everyone doesn't use all medium boxes... Still not sure how you hold a plywood corner together and keep it together. Lots of glue?

blueblood · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2014, 11:07:05 pm »

Those nucs look great Lazy! I use a continuous bead of Titebond II and 1" narrow crown staples. If I see light coming through, I put another staple down. If I still see light, I leave it for the bees to shore up. Although, I usually don't have that problem.

Also, I skipped the 3/8" rectangular entrance on this last batch. I planned on using one hole like you did. After seeing how easy a mouse can crawl through a hole, I am gun shy about making it too big. What size hole did you drill? I was thinking no larger than 3/4" but that still seem bigger than needed. I suppose they need enough room as if they were to exit carrying a dead drone. At least, that is what Iddee told me once.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2014, 11:18:24 pm »

I believe they are 1 inch holes in the older swarm trap Nuc's, the newer ones have an entrance of about 1'2 inch by 1.5 inches.. eyeballed on the width, with a brad driven up through the center.

My nuc's have the standard 3/4 by 7.5 inch entrances.

blueblood · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2014, 11:24:56 pm »

Well, I had my mind set on holes and skipped the rectangular entrance like I always do. I just couldn't bring myself to use the table saw one more time that day. :'( I think I will drill a few 5/8" holes. Thanks for the quick reply though..

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2014, 01:43:07 am »

No worries about reducers that way.

tefer2 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2014, 12:46:12 pm »

Lazy, we also have most of our queen operation on medium frame equipment.
We make our medium nuc boxes so they end up being 7 1/2 deep.
Found that swarm cells on the bottom of a frame doesn't fit a 6 5/8 box. (smashed)
Maybe your just setting them on a regular 3/4 bottom board?
But if attaching a bottom directly to it, they need to be deeper for that reason.
I rip down 1x10s and use the scrap for a feeder shim.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2015, 02:06:13 pm »

Yes Tefer, I use a 3/4 inch space bottom board for the nucs..
Have an order for coats nucs (deeps) so built one to test the water before I committed..
if I could get the plywood already cut to 20" widths I dont think it would be any issue at all to build these things.. handling a 4x8 sheet is a royal PAIN even with the RAS..
I built a few with plywood sides earlier, but used boards for the ends and the frame rests.. Didnt like those much, dont think they will last, and now that I have built a plywood nuc, I am sure I dont like them, at least for what I would do with a nuc.. If these are used for selling as a nuc with bees, I think they might just work very nicely.. cost is just over 5 dollars without paint. If used to do splits and transport bees I think they would also work very well, they just wouldnt work to maintain and keep bees in over winter etc...

tefer2 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2015, 03:06:20 pm »

Anytime your ripping 4x8 sheets, it's just easier to have a helper on the other side.
I can't count the number of times I've screwed up a sheet trying to handle it by myself.
Plus, it's always nice to have someone else to blame when it's cut wrong!

Remember, it's always the holders fault.