Overwintering Hive Insulation

[CpnObvious]

Based on a discussion I've had with another user on the forum, I've decided to post my thoughts of how I'm going to insulate my hives for the winter.  The past few Massachusetts winters have been exceptionally rough: compared to what we're used to experiencing (insert global-warming joke here).  Any feedback you have to offer would be appreciated.

I plan on cutting sheets of 3/4" foil-faced PolyISO board to fit snug around the hives, foil side facing in, pressing roofing nails through the material to hold it together.  I'll be keeping the entrance reducer in place for the winter, but will keep the entire entrance area free of insulation.  I'll probably make a little roof over it so snow can't block the entrance.  I may also drill a hole in the upper super (possibly with a removable plug?) to open on the nicer days to help with moisture control and allow another way out for cleansing flights.

My plan was to wrap this shell with black roofing/tar paper.

The tar paper and cleansing hole I have seen many others do out on the interwebs.  Think all this makes sense?  Is it too much?  What do y'all think?

[iddee]

I'm not up north, but one thing most northern beeks do that I would deem mandatory if I did live there.  Put an upper entrance, "3/4 in. round hole will do", and do not clear snow. Do clear hard ice from lower entrance. Snow is insulation, and bees can remove or melt it as thy see fit.

[Marion]

I have seen the pink Styrofoam insulation material used as you have described using the polyISO board. I have seen people use the tar paper. I don't see anything wrong with using both. I may do that also.

[Perry]

Tarpaper, and no insulation, except on top. I have tried those bee cosies (insulated blankets) and did not like them. I have found that just tarpaper alone works well for me. I'm up here in Nova Scotia and that's all I'm using. Using insulation and then wrapping with tarpaper defeats the purpose of the tarpaper, to allow solar gain on the hive body allowing it to warm up enough for the bees to shift onto freash stores. An upper entrance too. Bee can stay warm just fine, but not if they're damp. All IMHO.

[Marion]

Perry, Ward agrees with you about tar paper only. Great pictures.

[Marion]

When I bought my hive, it came with a hand made quilt that fit between the top cover and inner cover. Would that be something I should put back on for winter along with tarpaper around the hive body? Perry, what do you do to insulate the top?

[LazyBkpr]

I winter in SE Iowa pretty much the same way Perry does with really good luck so far.

   http://outyard.weebly.com/wintering.html

   I need to go through the page and clean it up and update it but its all there if you want to check it out.  As Perry said, what is posted is JUST my opinion and my method, yours may vary depending on your local climate and type of bees.

[riverbee]

capn, bees are more cold hardy than we give them credit for.  my thoughts are:

first and foremost:
1. strong healthy colonies and strong queen going into winter, mite (relatively mite free) and disease free.
2. honey/pollen stores. honey stores according to your area that the bees will need during winter months.  if not provide a shim to feed winter patties or candy board on top.

if we don't have the above, all the insulation on the planet will not save them or get them through winter.

what i do knowing i have the above:
1. provide a winter wind break.
2. wrap with something called a 'colony quilt' made by b and b honey farm, houston, minnesota
3. provide top and bottom entrances, and sometimes i will leave the entrance reducer totally off the bottom board.
4. polystyrene (2 inches) underneath the outer cover and on top the inner cover.

moisture is a killer in our hives, like perry said, cold and wet, and also you can over insulate. moisture will drip down on them from the inner cover. skip the polyiso board to insulate, IMHO, this is not necessary. top and bottom entrances for ventilation in our very cold climates, also, the top entrance allows them to leave the hive on warmer winter days, the bottom does and will get clogged up from dead bees, snow and ice. my top entrances are 3-4 inch long notches cut out of each on my inner covers.  also, my HO, do not use moisture absorbing material on top of the inner cover.  it does collect moisture, however, it collects a great deal and in freeze and thaw winter months, moisture is released from this material on warmer days or during thaws and will rain down on your bees.

[Perry]

I use both 1 1/2" styrofoam and insulated batts (wrapped in plastic, surrounded by a shim) on top of my notched inner cover and under my telescoping covers (like Scott). This allows the warm but moist air to escape, before it can condense on a cold inner cover. The shim also allows me to throw a patty of fondant on top if needed.

[CpnObvious]

Perry,

Is that last image of you placing sugar patties in the top?

[Perry]

Perry,

Is that last image of you placing sugar patties in the top?

Yup, although I use fondant, as the sugar is already inverted and easier for the bees to consume. I use it on anything even remotely light, or far enough away from home to not get as many visits.
Apis best explained it when he calls it a "bridge" for the bees. It allows them to go from side to side during the winter and not get caught out on one side of the hive during a cold spell, there is always food in the middle.

[Zweefer]

just as an add on.  (Sorry if this is digressing too much)
how to make fondant

http://thecookduke.com/fondant-recipe/
I substitute the corn syrup for the sugar syrup