Riverbee has written, in detail, about candlemaking. I have copied and pasted her information about wicks and wick size. I have also added the link to this thread.
Riverbee writes:
les, use square cotton (bleached) braided wicking. this stuff is made specifically for beeswax candles and all the suppliers carry it. the proper size of the wick depends on the diameter of the candle, and also if you are using a mold or pouring into a glass container. AND how clean your wax is.
i use larrys (Busy Bee Candle Supply) guideline on wick sizing, it has worked for me:
Busy Bee Wick Sizing Chart
Wick Sizing Chart
Wick Size Recommended
Candle Diameter
4/0 tealight
3/0 votive
2/0 0.8" taper
1/0 0.9" taper
# 1 1" - 1.5"
# 2 1.5" - 2"
# 3 2" - 2.5"
# 4 2.5" - 2.8"
# 6 2.8" - 3.2"
# 7 3.2" - 3.5"
or if you want specifics and some confusion, Atkins and Pearce:
Bleached Square Wick
the above link is a good guide when using bleached square wicking for determining wick size for your candles. i have also attached a pdf file.
Wick Selection Guide
scroll down to 'select your wax type' and click on it.
also most suppliers have and recommend wick sizing for any mold you purchase from them. all are just guidelines. the neat thing is if you are using a mold, and you light it and it doesn't burn properly, (or you muff it up........
) you can melt the wax back down again and try a different wick size for the mold you are using.
beeswax has a higher viscosity...........hmmmm, like apis and jen said............it is a thicker liquid and requires a thicker wick than other types of candles to burn properly.
beeswax..........i use nothing but cappings wax, and if you think your wax is clean even though you have filtered it, not so, and this will affect the finished product even though you may have the proper size wick. i filter all my wax through a solar melter 2 to 3 times. when i melt the wax down to make candles, i melt the brick down (double boiler method) in a large melting pitcher. when the wax is melted, i pour it into another smaller melting pitcher lined on top with nylon filter material to filter again before i pour into a mold, and temp about 160 degrees F.
if you are pouring tealights or votives or glass container, your wicks must be primed. (coated in beeswax). you can purchase pre primed wick tabs. i make my own. this is just simply taking the wick material and dipping it in molten beeswax, hanging it to cool and straighten, then crimping the amount i need onto a wick tab.
if you are pouring pillars or tapers, the entire wick through the candle does not need to be primed, just the tip of the wick, if you desire, not necessary. you can do this by pouring the wax down the wick (and should be anyway for any mold or container) or later dipping the tip briefly in melted beeswax. i don't. the candle will burn just fine.
also, about bleached cotton braiding............this braiding has a 'V' pattern in it, you want to place the wicking so that this 'V' pattern points with the 'V' upright in the candle, not the pointy end of the 'V' upside down like this ..........^
hope this helps, if you all would like, next time i pour candles in the next couple weeks, i can maybe photograph how i do it step by step to help out a little?
https://worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php?topic=4759.msg62579#msg62579She has also included a pdf file to down load that is filled with technical information.