Author Topic: WHOOO HOOO! (Read 57731 times)

tbonekel · « **Reply #160 on:** July 13, 2014, 06:51:59 pm »

That's a right nice pattern there!

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #161 on:** July 13, 2014, 10:06:55 pm »

Hey! Thats looking better Zweef! Glad to see your name back on the active list! Keep us informed!

riverbee · « **Reply #162 on:** July 13, 2014, 10:52:45 pm »

NICE!!!!

looking much better!!!...........

good to hear from you zweefer, and thanks for checking in and posting the pix...........yep our weather has been rather funky with all the rain. check in when you can, sure have missed you on the forum!

apisbees · « **Reply #163 on:** July 13, 2014, 10:53:52 pm »

As lazy said looking so much better than the brood pattern that the old queen was leaving.
One of the best words of advice I thing we can give new beekeepers is to recognize queens with problems and getting them replaced with queens that will work for you no against you and to do it sooner rather than waiting for later to see if she turns around.

Zweefer · « **Reply #164 on:** July 14, 2014, 11:49:57 pm »

question for the group...
There are several frames that once were brood, but are now completely filled with nectar... should i add a second deep to accomidate all this storage? There are only 3 frames used fro brood at this point, and the outer 2 or three dont have much going on... I'd hate to have the queen restricted when this hive has so much catching up to do...

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #165 on:** July 14, 2014, 11:59:30 pm »

How full are your frames? Are they all drawn?

No? Move the honey frames to the outside and the undrawn frames in to to the edge of the brood nest...

Yes?
Add the second deep, move a frame of honey to the walls, move a couple frames of honey Up to the second deep. Leave room in the center to expand the brood nest.. I would put the honey frames moved up in the 2 or 3 position and the 8 or 9 position, replace the moved UP frames with new frames on the edges of the brood nest..

That is what I would do, see what everyone else recommends before you jump!

Jen · « **Reply #166 on:** July 15, 2014, 12:02:16 am »

Yeaaah! Zweef's back!

Nice pics of a cute little boy and his dad...

Looks like in pic 7 that that deep has been scorched?

Zweefer · « **Reply #167 on:** July 24, 2014, 11:57:24 pm »

Not sure what photos you are referring to, but I did torch the deeps that were given to me just to be safe...

Zweefer · « **Reply #168 on:** July 25, 2014, 12:01:47 am »

So I was in the hives today and I felt a bit guilty... When I lifted up the second deep, I broke apart a lot of burr comb that had larvae in it

A little tough to see here, as the bees quickly covered the carnage...

Opinion time again...
Do you leave the comb on this instance as they have honey and brood in it, or take it out?

apisbees · « **Reply #169 on:** July 25, 2014, 12:43:38 am »

Don't worry about the carnage it was drone comb anyway. But when it does tare cells look for mites in the cells. If you have mites in the hive you will often see them here. The bees will remove the larva and clean up the honey and if you remove the comb the bees will just fill it back in with more comb. So I just leave it smoke the bees down before replacing the super on top.

Zweefer · « **Reply #170 on:** July 25, 2014, 12:54:40 am »

thanks Apis. i did scrape it down this time. but will most likely leave it in the future, as they will only draw it back out again...

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #171 on:** July 25, 2014, 08:35:06 am »

If you choose to leave the comb, be aware that when you reassemble that you will crush bees, or at least trap them there between the pieces.. Just another worry if your queen is anywhere nearby while you put things back together..

efmesch · « **Reply #172 on:** July 25, 2014, 08:55:25 am »

My general practice is to remove burr comb when I come across it. Several reasons for this:
1. Burr comb makes working the hive messy and diffficult. Lifting the combs is slow and sticky,
2. The wax can be used for melting down and recycled for any other uses you have for it.
3. The bees themselves get stuck in it if it's been broken and filled with honey.
I'm sure I could muster up a few more reasons but, basically, I find it annoying when there is comb where it shouldn't be. I like a "clean" frame to work with and for the bees to live on. It makes rearranging the frames (when necessary) much easier.
The presence of burr comb is often (not always) an indication that your equipment isn't spaced correctly and you have violated the rules of "the bee space".

Zweefer · « **Reply #173 on:** July 25, 2014, 09:18:36 am »

this is going from one box to the other (top of frames to bottom of frames above it) - should i trim the medium supers down so the space between frames is less then?

efmesch · « **Reply #174 on:** July 25, 2014, 09:39:51 am »

I wouldn't trim the frames if they are of the standard sizes and made professionally. Sometimes the burr comb is a result of not enough space in the hive and for lack of a better choice, they use the inter-super ares to relieve their instinct to build under the pressures of a heavy nectar flow. Sometimes, they "just have to build" [nectar coming in, large population of young bees] and without frames to build they build between them.
Just scrape off the comb and there is a good chance that the burr comb will not be re-built, especially if you have attended to the basic issue of available building and storage space.
Remember too that the intensity of a flow changes over time and the pressures that pushed the bees to build "last week" might no longer exist.

Zweefer · « **Reply #175 on:** July 28, 2014, 10:42:52 pm »

thanks ef!

Zweefer · « **Reply #176 on:** August 01, 2014, 10:20:20 am »

Went in yesterday to check on how the new super is being drawn out. Just pulled one frame. And found this.

And next to it this

I may actually get some honey this year!

My other hive (the requeened one) is still laying a wonderful brood pattern and has filled about 6 frames of their second deep. I believe they will be ready for winter.
I did find one frame they were just getting to where the foundation has been partially destroyed, and is coming out.. As I do not currently have any more deep foundation, would you replace this with a foundationless frame, or let it be? or possibly try or readjust to nine frame deep?
Which brings up a question a bit off topic, but i am a curious sort of guy, so...
Is it acceptable to have multiple numbered frames together (10 frame on bottom deep 9 on top of that etc.)?

as i said, they are just starting to get to it - looked like comb was being drawn on a spot on the one side bowing out. I cant put it back straight, as it is too far gone now...

Garden Hive · « **Reply #177 on:** August 01, 2014, 10:49:10 am »

Hey Zweefer,
Nice to see them storing the honey in the new super. The other frame is not ruined. It is just fine, either put it to the outside or move it between two that have been fully drawn. They will repair and fill the vacant areas.

ALWAYS....fill any box with the frames that fit...If they are just foundation.

Once they are fully drawn, then you can space out using 1 less. This allows for a deeper cell for honey storage and easier uncapping for some. No problem with different numbers mixed.
There is however no need to do this in a brood box.

efmesch · « **Reply #178 on:** August 02, 2014, 03:51:07 pm »

I'm in full agreement with Garden HIve. Only one small additional comment--you could reverse the direction of the frame with the damaged foundation. This might place the damaged area between two frames more completely built (180 degree twist). Placed in an area with a larger population of bees, they are more likely to build the missing section.

apisbees · « **Reply #179 on:** August 03, 2014, 07:00:33 am »

On the frame with warped foundation open the holes in the end bars and use a couple of strands fishing line to hold the comb in alinement.