Clutch

[Beeboy]

My brother has a friend that made him a clutch for his extractor. It's about 5 inches long & very heavy. One end you chuck on a cordless drill, & the other end slips over the crank on the extractor. It has two notches on it that fit the two pins sticking out of the crank so that the clutch is engaged with the crank. When you let the trigger off the clutch disengages the drill from the crank & the extractor keeps on spinning even though the drill is stopped. It is a home made jobby, but boy is it handy! Do you guys have anything like this, or have seen anything like this? I would love to be able to buy one.

The guy works in a machine shop & had someone give him this clutch years ago & he never threw it away because he thought he could eventually find a use for it. He say my brother cranking the handle on his extractor & the next time he saw him he had this clutch made for him...(I envy guys like this) He just made some modifications to it & it works really great! If I can get a pic of it, I'll post it.

[CpnObvious]

While I can certainly see the benefits of that, I question what it will do to the drill.  Cordless drills only offer so much power and torque.  I would worry about burning out the drill.  Maybe the design of the clutch converts the drills' lower torque without hurting it?  I'd have to see how it's designed.  How many frames is the extractor?  I would think a heavy-duty 1/2" corded drill would be best.  Just my humble opinion

[Beeboy]

My Dewalt 18 volt handles it with no problem. I have used that thing for much tougher jobs in much tougher conditions...the cordless drill is no problem. Last years extractor was only a two framer & this year I will be running a two & a four framer, so I'll have to get back with you on the four framer, but I anticipate no problems

The only draw back that I have found is that if someone is helping you run the drill they will run the drill two fast & cause damage to the comb in the frame. (especially the kids) It will handle the job in any gear, but I put it low & use maybe half power.

[blueblood]

I would be interested in a photo if you have one.  I am having problems wrapping my mind around it without a pic.  Like Captain said, a cordless drill would nice for something like that.  You can buy a hammer drill at Harbor Freight for under $40 that is not only useful for mixing concrete, drilling for Tapcon screws, etc., it would have variable speed and reverse.  It also has a button to engage the trigger so you can relax your fingers.  If we derailed on your question, sorry.  But, it's still a nice drill and everyone should have one...I have an older model. 
http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-reversible-hammer-drill-68169-8027.html

[Beeboy]

No derail Blueblood. I texted my brother to see if he could send a pic of it. I'll post it when I get the pic from him.

I'm sure it's not as good as having a motor on the extractor, but it's better than hand cranking the thing.

[Woody Roberts]

I have a two frame homemade extractor I run with my 19.2V craftsman. Like you say you can spin it too fast.
Mine works best as the battery is getting weak.

I have a right angle drill that I can control the speed on better that I plan on trying this year.

My cordless drills all have a brake that stops them hard when you let off. A freewheeling clutch would be great.

[Steve4548]

I can't find the picture again but I saw a home made system using the rear hub from a bmx bike.  If your good with metal this could be a cheap option

[Beeboy]

Yes Woody a free wheeling clutch. That's what it is.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

[apisbees]

A  cordless drill uses an electric break so the baskets stop faster than they start so it can develop an incredible amount of torque if you let your finger off the trigger. It can twist wrists.
A corded drill will allow the drill to wind down.
An easy disconnect can be modeled after the cranks on the old cars and tractors that were used to start them. A pipe sets screwed to the extractor handle shaft to 1/2 depth. On the other end of the pipe place 2 cuts in 180 deg. In 1/2" then angle cut from one of the cuts out to the end of the pipe. Do the same for the other cut. Use a piece of shaft to mount in the drill chuck and drill a hole through the other end and tap in a roll pin which is 1/2" longer than the diameter of the shaft. When the trigger is depressed the roll pin will drive against the flat cuts in the pipe. When released the angle cut will force the shaft drill back the 1/2" disengaging it. The drill can be removed so the extractor  can spin down or reinserted to apply more power while it is still spinning.
A cheep easy coupler can be constructed with a plastic / rubber pipe 2 to 4" long, that fits over the handle shaft next use a socket about the same size of the shaft. Clamp each end with a hose clamp. Use a drill to socket adapter that is the same size as the socket. This works well with a corded drill.

Sent from my LG-P500h using Tapatalk 2

[G3farms]

Sounds like an over running clutch that is used on a tractors PTO.

[Beeboy]

My bro had it loaned out right now so I can't get a pick of it until he gets it back.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

[Beeboy]

Here are the pics. They are a little fuzzy but can you see what I'm talking about now? It is a very handy tool. I can see a market for them pretty easily.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

[Lburou]

A clutch like you described above would be a 'sprag' clutch.  Helicopters have them so they will autorotate.