Author Topic: Truck question, Gearheads (Read 7476 times)

Perry · « **on:** December 17, 2014, 07:42:00 pm »

OK, those that know me a bit, know that I just had the engine replaced in my 91 GMC pickup.
I was thinking about having the cooling system flushed and was talking to the rad shop for a bit. He asked for measurements of the rad so I went out to take a few measurements. It was then that I noticed something unusual.
I could see the upper and lower rad hoses, and the 2 transmission lines going into the tank on the passenger side (I also have an additional tranny cooler hooked in), but when I went to the driver's side of the rad I noticed that there were 2 more connections to the tank on that side, and they had been removed.
I have since discovered that my truck came out with an "engine oil cooler". I have to admit I had never even heard of such a thing for regular pickup trucks. Rads yes, tranny coolers yes, but engine oil coolers no.
Well I guess when they did the engine transplant the motor that went in did not have the fitting on the engine to run to the rad so they just disconnected them.
I have been told by anyone I've talked to so far, that very few trucks ever even had an engine oil cooler, it must have been an option.
Were these things a vital part of some trucks, or just a luxury?

rcannon · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2014, 08:34:56 pm »

Some heavy duty or towing packages include a oil cooler, but I can't remember Chevy offering that option in '91.
I can't imagine needing one in your climate, unless you're doing some heavy towing. You need the oil to get hot enough during regular use to cause to moisture in it to vaporize and be removed thru the crankcase ventilation system. If not, the moisture in the oil becomes acidic and can cause a lot of damage over time.

I personally wouldn't worry too much about it.

Perry · « **Reply #2 on:** December 17, 2014, 09:06:24 pm »

Whew!

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2014, 10:52:05 pm »

Quite a lot of them had it, mine is an 89 and it also HAD the oil "cooler" I removed it when I first got the truck.. In severe use situations it may be useful.. My 94 Dually still has it, and I kept it when I put the 489 in it, because of what i do with that truck..
The adapter with the hoses will swap from one motor to the next, and SHOULD have been swapped over when they put your engine in.. The only reason I can think of that they may not have, is that the metal lines were in bad shape? The fittings were leaking etc... Once in a while I have seen the coolant tank/lines within the radiator leak as well.. If that was the case you should have been informed...
Another scenario... Did your truck originally HAVE the engine oil coolant lines on it? If the rad was replaced it may have had the fittings that you did not need?

In any event.. you'll be fine without the lines for your use of that truck. Mine often tows upwards of twelve tons, or I should say it DID until I built the dually. I expected, and had no difficulties without the added oil cooler running through the radiator.

lazy shooter · « **Reply #4 on:** December 18, 2014, 07:58:58 am »

I'm impressed with the knowledge of coolers and motors among our forum members. I owned some Ford pickups that had transmission coolers. I think my current Escalade has a transmission cooler, but I never knew of an oil cooler. We have some 110 degree days here when the asphalt pavement get hot enough to fry an egg, so I would think they were used in our area, but I have never heard of one.

I agree with the above poster, that Perry does not need one in his climate, especially since he does not do heavy duty pulling.

Perry · « **Reply #5 on:** December 18, 2014, 02:39:27 pm »

After a bit more reading I am going to agree with you all, I don't really think I need it at all. I also read online what rcannon posted about needing the oil to heat up enough to burn off the moisture. Most of my yards are only 10 minutes away, so barely a 10 minute drive between them, barely enough time for the oil to get warm, never mind too hot.
I certainly don't use the truck much for "recreational" purposes, not with the fuel economy a 3/4 ton gets.

Riverrat · « **Reply #6 on:** December 18, 2014, 07:18:33 pm »

Just store a memo back on the back burner. When Brandt bee's reaches 2000 hives to hook it back up. The 26 foot gooseneck full of hives might put a lug on the motor.

rcannon · « **Reply #7 on:** December 18, 2014, 08:16:48 pm »

Most owners manuals give several oil change intervals, one for normal conditions and one for severe conditions. The severe condition includes multiple short trips. This is because the oil doesn't stay hot long enough to get rid or the moisture. They recommend in this case to change the oil a little more often.
It's usually not a problem, because they oil and vehicle manufacturers brainwashed the public into changing oil to often, anyway. If you change oil at 3000 miles, which used to be recommended, you were throwing away perfectly good oil.
I have a acquaintance that owns a tribology lab and you'd be amazed at the mileage he says you can get from motor oil before its used up.

Perry · « **Reply #8 on:** December 18, 2014, 08:35:12 pm »

Who needs a mechanic when I got you guys!

Sorry Rat, don't think you'll ever see me go over 100. I'm kinda happy right at where I am, 65 and 5 nucs.
I don't want to lose the fun if it starts to feel too much like work.

Slowmodem · « **Reply #9 on:** December 18, 2014, 09:58:01 pm »

Quote from: rcannon on December 18, 2014, 08:16:48 pm

Most owners manuals give several oil change intervals, one for normal conditions and one for severe conditions. The severe condition includes multiple short trips. This is because the oil doesn't stay hot long enough to get rid or the moisture. They recommend in this case to change the oil a little more often.
It's usually not a problem, because they oil and vehicle manufacturers brainwashed the public into changing oil to often, anyway. If you change oil at 3000 miles, which used to be recommended, you were throwing away perfectly good oil.
I have a acquaintance that owns a tribology lab and you'd be amazed at the mileage he says you can get from motor oil before its used up.

I believe using leaded gas made a difference in the oil change interval, as well.

Slowmodem · « **Reply #10 on:** December 18, 2014, 09:58:53 pm »

I found this in Wikipedia. GMC and Chevys roll down the same assembly line, I do believe:

Heavy-duty towing equipment was available for both C and K-Series pickups, such as the Trailering Special package (included power steering, uprated battery, and uprated generator), 7-pin trailer electrics connector, heavy-duty engine oil cooler, heavy-duty transmission oil cooler, and a weight distributing trailer hitch.

lazy shooter · « **Reply #11 on:** December 23, 2014, 08:41:13 am »

@rcannon:

I have an acquaintance that worked in Shell Oil Company's research lab. He too, said oil lasted much longer that one could imagine. He would buy a new car and drive it a few thousand miles, change the oil and filter and never change the oil again. His first oil change was to get any and all of the metal particles out of the engine. He would then change the filter every three thousand miles and add enough oil to replace the filter capacity. He drove his cars 90,000 miles and started looking for a trade. He said the oil was still good. I haven't followed in his footsteps, but he did it for decades. I don't even know if he is still with us.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #12 on:** December 23, 2014, 12:15:30 pm »

Working for GM I replaced quite a lot of engines.. You would be AMAZED at the amount of people that have NO CLUE that their engines have oil, much less that it needs to be changed.. I pulled MANY vehicles onto the lift and raised them up to find they still had the original oil filter on them, with 50 to 80 THOUSAND miles... Pull the oil pan down, and it leaves an impression in the sludge where the oil pickup tube was.. the oil is solidified to the point I could pick a gob of it out and form it into a ball..
Changing the filter might help... that half to one quart added may have rejuvenated the oil enough to let it keep going... What I know, is that I change oil every 3000 miles. It gets rid of the ash and other build up in it.. sort of like rotating old brood combs out of a hive.. Stuff you do not want DOES build up, especially if you drive like I do.
The other issue is the oil bypass valve. Once the filter begins to plug up, the oil bypasses the filter, and is not even filtered. The first thing I do on an engine I rebuild for my own use, is block off the bypass, and install dual remote filters. The 89 truck I wrecked a few years ago was closing in on 300 thousand miles, the one I have now is about to roll over 150 thousand.... but I replaced the motor with a roller cam 350 at 91 thousand.

I have no arguments with anyone running their cars as they wish.. like keeping bees, we all have our own methods..
My wife has a New Prius Hybrid, and the service interval is at ten thousand miles...... Umm... no! I still change the oil in it at 3000.. She will likely drive that thing until it wont run anymore, or we cant get the parts to fix it. Something in me just wont allow me to let a vehicle get that many miles before I change the oil....

A friend of mine in Maine bought a new toyota truck... ran it for 120 thousand, and then sold it to another friend of mine... the first friend NEVER changed the oil.. as stated, he changed filter and topped it off.. when the second friend bought it, he changed the oil, said it was NASTY when he pulled the drain plug... it ran 2800 miles and started knocking... lower end knock from a bad bearing.. Yep, he got 120K out of it... Got his moneys worth, but I have seen well maintained toyotas with over 500K on them.
Being one of those people that refuses to pay the idiotic prices for a new truck.. I will keep my oil changed, and keep on driving my old one for as long as I can scrounge parts for it!

rcannon · « **Reply #13 on:** December 23, 2014, 08:45:52 pm »

My acquaintance, the lab rat, says with proper filtration and a top off once in a while, he can get 50000 miles between oil changes. Matter of fact, over the road trucks do that regularly. They can't afford the time or money to change oil every few thousand miles. Especially since they run 10 - 15 gallons, not quarts.
The secret sauce is not the oil itself, but the additive package in the oil. Particularly, the boron and molybdenum , now that lead is outlawed.
Normal folks can't or won't have their oil sampled like he can, so long oil change intervals are not advised. He also says that weather conditions play a big role in the condition of the oil. He was telling me that he has seen his oil need to be changed as soon as 12,000 miles, or as long as 50,000, depending on several factors.
He also says that any oil on the market is better that the best was 10 years ago. He says if you want the best protection, your best bang for the buck is a premium filter.

lazy shooter · « **Reply #14 on:** December 25, 2014, 08:54:03 am »

@rcannon:

The premium filter is the golden bullet. One of my recent drill rigs had three generator motors that were 1.200 HP each. They ran two of them at all times, keeping the third one in reserve. They were very diligent about servicing the engines, in particular the fuel and oil filters. Those three engines have been running like that for 20 years. When the rig is down or being moved they do not run, but they have probably been in service one-half of the time, or 10 years. Those engines have never been repaired, not once. So it seems diligent maintenance is the key, and this company spared no money of filters.

barry42001 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 25, 2014, 11:03:25 am »

I got a 95 ford explorer. In fair shape considering it's age. I always do initial maintenance of oil change, filter replacement, quality check coolant. When I removed the oil plug, the " oil " glumped out almost a semi solid. Now I have seen dirty oil, almost black in color, but NEVER have I seen reddish brown super thick oil...never. put clean oil and filter on, and quart of Murphy's mystery oil, is a additive that cleans valves, and most all internal motor parts that may get gunked up. Works well seafoam well too. That goes into the gas tank to clean.

Slowmodem · « **Reply #16 on:** December 25, 2014, 01:52:17 pm »

Quote from: lazy shooter on December 25, 2014, 08:54:03 am

The premium filter is the golden bullet.

What do you consider a premium filter?

efmesch · « **Reply #17 on:** December 25, 2014, 02:36:21 pm »

Just for a chuckle---I've been operating my power lawn mower (Briggs and Stratton 3.5 hp engine) for the last 25 years and never changed the oil--just added, from time to time. Having said that, I think it's life is coming to an end.......

Perry · « **Reply #18 on:** December 25, 2014, 02:58:59 pm »

After 25 years, it certainly doesn't owe you anything!

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #19 on:** December 25, 2014, 05:25:53 pm »

Murpheys Oil soap or MARVEL mystery oil Barry?