"The hive on the far left is the hive I thought was hot, I still think it is. Two day's ago I was checking the top med of mother hive, the one to the far right, to see how much they have pulled, and the bees were all over me, I'm sure I would have gotten stung if I hadn't suited up.
Hubby and I have been devising a plan, thought I would run it by you guys first.
My robbing screens can be turned around and attached to the hive so you can move the hive. It locks the bees in but they still get all the air circulation. What if: for one day, we put robbing screens on two of the hives, go out into the yard and putz around, mow the lawn, see if we get any aggressive bees. Then the next day switch the robbing screens to the other two hives, see if we get any aggression. Then, the third day, do the last two hives, see if we get any aggression. It would help us determine which hive is the stinging hive."
jen, bees can and will be aggressive in the spring of the year, lift every lid, which one flys in your face? all or one?
don't go to the trouble messing with the robbing screens, MHO. give them time, in short, if you have a hot hive, in time, that hive will fly in your face when you open it. hope this makes sense.
" It's been six days since last check, the top med is 70% full of nectar and starting to cap. I have a new med super ready. Here's my question: I check all frames quickly, all of them are pulled and have nectar. The first frame I pulled has this bit of brood at the bottom of the frame, and the last frame on the other side has a patch of open brood. Should I assume that as soon as this larvae hatches, that the bees will back fill with nectar in these area's? Or, should I put on a queen excluder under this super? I'm thinking not?"
move the drawn frames with nectar and brood up, place the new medium super on underneath, no queen excluder. the bees will take care of the brood, and they will go to work on the new box.