Author Topic: Kregg Tool & Butt Joints (Read 10387 times)

40 Acre Bees · « **on:** April 03, 2015, 07:01:51 pm »

Has anyone ever built their boxes just using a simple butt joint and using a Kregg Tool for pocket holes and stainless screws. I find these types of joints extremely strong but unsure about using them for the bees. Let me know your thoughts.

Perry · « **Reply #1 on:** April 03, 2015, 07:25:05 pm »

If they are for yourself I would build them however you want to. I think there are a few here that just use regular butt joints.

G3farms · « **Reply #2 on:** April 03, 2015, 07:33:59 pm »

I have seen several different keeps with these type of joints.

JP had some boxes on several of his videos made like this.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #3 on:** April 03, 2015, 10:07:04 pm »

I made quite a lot of boxes with butt joints, well glued and held with brad nails, they are still holding up fine. I only stopped using them because people I sell to dont want to BUY boxes made that way, they want box/finger joints, but I absolutely refuse to make them, and only use them if I buy out another beek that had them. So the rabbit joints are what I use. They dont take much more work than the butt joints.

mowarren · « **Reply #4 on:** April 12, 2015, 08:40:28 pm »

I made mine with butt joints - glued with titebond 2 pilot hole and 2 1/2 deck screws. it took a little more time but I had a load of free 2x6 scraps. i'll try to get a pic on here

G3farms · « **Reply #5 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:14:09 pm »

WOW!!

Those are some heavy duty hives, but free wood is free wood and the bees really don't care one way or the other. It could make a difference in the winter with the added insulation value.

mowarren · « **Reply #6 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:23:38 pm »

I hope so planning on expanding this year. I built 13 hive bodies 7 bottom boards and tops all for cost of glue deck screws and paint

G3farms · « **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:26:29 pm »

you need some type of hand hold on them, they are very awkward to pick up with out them.

mowarren · « **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:31:48 pm »

I'm going to glue and nail a strip on front and back just wanted to paint first, thought it would be easier that way.

Perry · « **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:41:33 pm »

Quote from: G3farms on April 12, 2015, 09:14:09 pm

WOW!! Those are some heavy duty hives, but free wood is free wood and the bees really don't care one way or the other. It could make a difference in the winter with the added insulation value.

You took the words right out of my mouth G3, I was gonna say the same thing! I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that you don't move hives into pollination!

mowarren · « **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:50:10 pm »

no these will stay in place in the back yard.they are heavy enough empty, inside dimensions will allow regular super or hive body on top if I need that.they are sturdy I can stand on them without worry.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:51:31 pm »

Those aught to last a few seasons if maintained!
I have a couple folks I make hives for that insist on the 1 1/2 inch wood, and dont want hand holds routered, they want slats on the sides to lift them by. These folks swear by the thicker boxes.. Might be something to it as G3 said when wintering.
Excellent use of available resources right there!

mowarren · « **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2015, 09:54:29 pm »

if they lasy as long as the tools to build them would be a statement, all cuts made with shopsmith i've cleaned up.

Perry · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2015, 06:47:39 am »

I've never seen anything like that. $:-\$
Nice shop too.

mowarren · « **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2015, 08:05:39 am »

google shopsmith the colors are not correct on mine - it was made in mid fifties

CpnObvious · « **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2015, 08:45:17 am »

Pocket screwing is a great way to solidify projects. My only concern, but I'm certainly not speaking out of experience: In Southern regions where folks have small hive beetles, I would worry about this giving the beetles a place to hide. You're further North than me, so no worries for you, either, but I wanted to point this out as a potential issue for those further South.

I use rabbets, glue, finish nails from a gun.

kingd · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2015, 11:34:31 am »

I make my boxes with butt joints,titebond 3 and deck screws,I have made them the other ways also but went back to butt joints just because it was less steps for me.

I routered handles on some but the wife prefers wood strips for handles and I personally did not care either way.

Mobeez · « **Reply #17 on:** May 27, 2015, 02:29:57 pm »

I saw a post that used old pallet wood for the boxes. I think I remember the builder saying that the bees will fill the cracks anyway.

Alleyyooper · « **Reply #18 on:** May 28, 2015, 06:11:10 am »

Don't use butt joints enough to justify the cost of the tool. I still cut the finger joints with my sled and table saw.

I have a really old shop smith saw from about the 40's. I never cared to use it as a table saw. Is mounted on as old dresser now for the drawers.

My brother has a Mark V from the mid 70's I think he has about every attachment for it.

Al

brooksbeefarm · « **Reply #19 on:** May 28, 2015, 09:19:55 am »

I build butt joint hives and supers out of 1 x 12's, (# 4 grade) no, 3 titebond glue,( for joints and knots) 2 1/2 in. sheetrock screws, and Valspar paint. When making deeps there is a strip left for hand holds and making supers there is enough lumber left to make top feeders.They have lasted for years with know problems, they are 3/4 in thick on all 4 sides so that has to make them warmer and the 1in. by 2 in. strip across the front and back makes them stronger and easy to grip and move. The only down side i find is they are heavier. Jack
PS. the girls never complain and seem happy with there new homes.