Author Topic: Oxalic acid (Read 44225 times)

iddee · « **Reply #20 on:** January 05, 2014, 11:55:33 am »

I think twigged might be a Canadian expression we are not familiar with in the states. Can you define it, please?

Crofter · « **Reply #21 on:** January 05, 2014, 01:46:55 pm »

Quote from: iddee on January 05, 2014, 11:55:33 am

I think twigged might be a Canadian expression we are not familiar with in the states. Can you define it, please?

Iddee, if you step on a dry twig while you are waiting for a deer to come in range of your .22RFM you will soon know the deer twigged to you! He became aware of you.

Jen · « **Reply #22 on:** January 05, 2014, 04:45:10 pm »

Alerted ~ Got It, thanks Crofter

riverbee · « **Reply #23 on:** January 05, 2014, 08:12:33 pm »

twig/twigged:

"understand or realize something".........

minz · « **Reply #24 on:** January 06, 2014, 05:10:55 pm »

I would have to say that the OA is just about free. The time to do it though is not the time to check for mites. I started doing some OA drip about the first week in December but chickened out because it was so dang cold. I was actually going to do only one of two hives in a couple of locations and see if it had a side by side noticeable effect.

Perry · « **Reply #25 on:** January 06, 2014, 08:46:52 pm »

Side by side comparisons, always a couple variables, but hey, you have to start somewhere. I did the same thing with winter wraps. Tried both and came to my own conclusion! That's how we learn best.

Crofter · « **Reply #26 on:** January 06, 2014, 08:48:47 pm »

I think there might be more risk of chilling bees by doing OA drizzle in cold temperatures than there is with vaporization. Vaporization can be done without opening the hive at all and if you plan for it, even when wrapped.

minz · « **Reply #27 on:** January 10, 2014, 06:18:27 pm »

True but right now I am mountain camp sugar on everything so now I have no way of doing the drip. Woke up today and it was 50! Now I wish I could remove the newspaper and sugar and do the drip. Not like I am home anyway.

tecumseh · « **Reply #28 on:** January 12, 2014, 06:58:05 pm »

some good information here about vaporizing oxalic... of course the real concern for me with this method is the nasty fumes you generate and the potential health aspect of this process to the beekeeper < in this case me... for anyone even considering vaporizing oxalic a full face mask like a painter might use is absolutely essential equipment....

perhaps we could get some discussion of how and when folks might consider oxalic as a dribble as an alternative varroa treatment? since oxalic is an acid what kind of safety items are necessary. any + or - experience is always of considerable value.

any number of items including oxalic would look to be items folks might want to know about if they were considering some form of a IPM program.

Buzzbee · « **Reply #29 on:** January 12, 2014, 08:35:51 pm »

I attached a document from a University in Turkey describing treatment and results with OA.
If we treat mites, we generally like to knock them down before the fall brooding period before they raise the bees that will overwinter. That is about mid August here.

Crofter · « **Reply #30 on:** January 13, 2014, 09:34:52 am »

Quote from: Buzzbee on January 12, 2014, 08:35:51 pm

I attached a document from a University in Turkey describing treatment and results with OA.
If we treat mites, we generally like to knock them down before the fall brooding period before they raise the bees that will overwinter. That is about mid August here.

Are you using dribble method or vaporization?

Larry · « **Reply #31 on:** January 17, 2014, 04:59:01 am »

We have did the dribble on a friends Italian bees that had been in the pumpkin patch in the Mountains of NC. It doesn't take long unless your boxes are stacked high. We did it in Nov. and had good results with mite drop. He works his bees hard in the blueberries and pumpkins. Glad we do not have to treat Wayne's Queens hives...... yet.

Perry · « **Reply #32 on:** January 17, 2014, 08:40:31 am »

Dribble is effective, the only downsides are having to crack the hive open to get at the bottom deep, and the fact it is a 2 man job.
By the way Larry, I see that was your first post. Thanks for jumping in with your experience.

40 Acre Bees · « **Reply #33 on:** January 19, 2014, 08:47:16 pm »

We were thinking of using the green drone foundation in the hives this year for mite control. Does anyone else use this and would one frame per hive be enough if you rotate it out on a regular basis..........

Perry · « **Reply #34 on:** January 19, 2014, 08:49:06 pm »

Next time I see you folks the next one (drone frame) is on me, that way you can rotate one in and freeze the one you just took out.
Call it a late Christmas present.

Slowmodem · « **Reply #35 on:** January 19, 2014, 09:47:19 pm »

Quote from: 40 Acre Bees on January 19, 2014, 08:47:16 pm

We were thinking of using the green drone foundation in the hives this year for mite control. Does anyone else use this and would one frame per hive be enough if you rotate it out on a regular basis..........

It's my understanding that timing is very important in using drone comb to combat mites. Leave it in too long and you'll have a mite explosion.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #36 on:** January 28, 2014, 11:08:10 pm »

I ordered a Varox Vaporizer and the OA Crystals this afternoon.. I hope this stuff is half as good as claimed in what I have read.. I dont think I will throw away the Hopguard just yet, but looking forward to seeing the results.

Edward · « **Reply #37 on:** January 29, 2014, 02:04:47 am »

You can bee successful with dribbling down to -3ºC = 26.600ºF without any problems.

I wouldn't use the green plastic frame, better to use an empty frame and let them build freely, this is better beecause more Young worker bees are involved and the mites are more likely to bee on them.

The third frame in a ten frame box early in the spring build up as a drone frame catches mites successfully.

Cut out and freeze the capped drone brood, save and feed to birds in Winter or give to chickens that go nuts with delight and love eating larvae.

mvh Edward

Edward · « **Reply #38 on:** January 29, 2014, 02:06:53 am »

Drone frame cut out and dribbling is the standard way to treat mites in sweden and i works well.

mvh Edward

Crofter · « **Reply #39 on:** January 29, 2014, 10:02:11 am »

I have only heard of one person claim bad results but he double dosed. I does take three, weekly doses unless you catch them when there is no capped brood then one shot does the trick. I like the idea that it will not accumulate in honey or hive components.