Author Topic: 20 Frames of Drone Brood and Wax Moth Question (Read 30200 times)

riverbee · « **Reply #60 on:** June 08, 2015, 12:00:19 am »

if they turn their butts in the cage trying to sting her, or what looks like biting, or are acting aggressively or agitated not a good sign.

also, this can be coupled with the 'sounds' or a 'hum' we learn to recognize or associate with what we think bees are.... happy or agitated, and activity on the combs.

if you see bees clamoring on the cage with their antennae in, AND you witness bees fanning near and from a distance of the cage with their butts in the air, this is typically a good sign........other bees will quickly come to the tops of the frames, and your frames will be lined with bees at the tops.
kinda cool to see actually. a new queen reigns.
i think setting the cage down with the queen on top of the frames and watching how the bees react is a good indication on how well they will accept her.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #61 on:** June 09, 2015, 10:16:37 am »

Yep, what Mrs River Said.. they will also "grasp" the wire and not want to let go if they are angry. It is hard to move or dislodge them. If they are happy, they will move when you touch them.

Good deal Jen! I was busy scratching my head and read what Iddee posted.. His is the best explanation I can think of. You are indeed blessed my friend! I am happy that worked for you!

Jen · « **Reply #62 on:** June 09, 2015, 10:35:48 am »

Thanks Scott

Every season the bees give me a giant scenario to figure out, It's been a queen learning year for sure. I wonder how I would have managed these situations without all of you great people on this forum. I sit out on my back step with my morning coffee and see my hives all queen right and the bees quietly whirling in the air in front of each of their homes... the bees and me are content.

If you dawdle too long Scott.. I just might make the Master Beekeeper title before you... Wouldn't That Be A Hoot!

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #63 on:** June 09, 2015, 08:30:23 pm »

Quote from: Jen on June 09, 2015, 10:35:48 am

If you dawdle too long Scott.. I just might make the Master Beekeeper title before you... Wouldn't That Be A Hoot!

Nope! I'd be quite proud of you!

When there is something I wish to learn about, I can stay attentive for LONG periods of time... when I could really care less about what is being taught, I have great difficulty paying attention long, and or retaining any part of it... When I look at what must be learned/taught and tested, to become a master beekeeper I do not look forward to attempting it... There is quite a lot to learn that is well beyond "beekeeping"
But it will be attempted.

Jen · « **Reply #64 on:** June 09, 2015, 09:02:53 pm »

and there is no doubt in my mind that you would do well...exceptional even

litefoot · « **Reply #65 on:** June 10, 2015, 01:16:39 am »

Awesome thread, Jen. I learned a ton. Thank you for asking good questions to help break down the why's and why nots of laying workers.

Jen · « **Reply #66 on:** June 10, 2015, 01:24:21 am »

Hi Litefoot

Awe Shucks...

But you know what? I learned a lot on this thread as well, soo interesting that worker bees can establish their own pheromone... AND THEN QUITE POSSIBLY, ALMOST CERTATINLY, KILL A BRAND NEW MATED QUEEN!! the nerve I tell ya

Les · « **Reply #67 on:** June 10, 2015, 08:19:16 am »

Agree with Litefoot, this was a learning post. Thanks for keeping us updated.

Jen · « **Reply #68 on:** June 11, 2015, 01:13:27 am »

Was digging around in my little bee shed and came across a forgotten plastic bin of meds with about 1/3 honey capped, that were stored over the winter. Not a huge infestation yet, but well on it's way. Should I knock off the visible webs and cacoons and then freeze for 48?

efmesch · « **Reply #69 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:12:50 am »

Wax moth cocoons and their webs don't "knock off". You'll have to get your hands into the job and pull them off as well as you can. Look in the corners for hard to spot cocoons. They like to hide out of sight. Freezing for 48 hrs should do in the remaianing larvae.
What is your plan for the honey? Extract or feed it back to the hives? Either way, after the combs have been emptied, I would suggest giving them a spraying with BT for future protection. The pollen packed cells is a real attractant for the moth larvae and they love to burrow tunnels through them, developing rapidly while hidden below the surface.

Jen · « **Reply #70 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:22:04 am »

I was hoping to clean them up like you said, then freeze, then put back into hives and let the bees clean house and finish capping them off with honey ~ is that an exceptible plan?

efmesch · « **Reply #71 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:41:29 am »

From what I could make out in the pictures, the frames were used for brood rearing or were bordering on brood rearing frames. There's a lot of pollen packed into those cells and I don't think the bees would add honey over the pollen. Pollen in honey frames also makes uncapping more difficult. I would suggest extracting the honey that you can and then place the frames with the remaining packed pollen close to an area in the hive where the queen has just layed egges or where there is very young brood, hoping that the pollen in the cells will be cleared out to feed the brood.
I can't guarantee that will happen though. I find Pollen in honey frames to be a terrible nuissance, particularly because it unbalances the extractor as the extracting process proceeds. You start out with well balanced frames and then as the honey flies out and the pollen stays behind, the extractor starts to wobble more and more.

Jen · « **Reply #72 on:** June 11, 2015, 11:35:50 am »

A sound idea Ef

Because of our drought here in California my frames are just loaded with pollen, not so much nectar. But the temps are up in the 90's and the Star Thistle is blooming so I'm hoping for a big flow any minute now ~

Jen · « **Reply #73 on:** June 11, 2015, 12:26:53 pm »

Update on 20 drone ridden frames. When I removed these frames, I didn't have the freezer space to freeze them yet, and then I got very involved in caring for hubby and his surgery stuff and on and on.

So these frames have been stored in my bee shed for a few weeks. Boy! does it stink in that shed!

Are they still usable?

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #74 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:49:13 pm »

Did the wax moth or hive beetles slime them or is it just the dead drone brood that smells?

Jen · « **Reply #75 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:03:59 pm »

No hive beetles here. But 10 of the frames now have wax moth.

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #76 on:** June 11, 2015, 06:03:32 pm »

Then it just depends on how bad the frames are. The bees will clean and repair if they can.

riverbee · « **Reply #77 on:** June 11, 2015, 08:00:39 pm »

jen, how bad are the frames? can you post some pix?

Jen · « **Reply #78 on:** June 11, 2015, 09:42:46 pm »

Hi there Yes I can, would have done it sooner today but internet went down

Okay, so the there are 10 out of the 20 frames that have 'noticable' wax moth damage and ick. This frame is the worst of them, the damage on the other 9 frames go down in degree of ick.

I want to pic all those rotten drone larvae out of each frame, but I don't know if the bees would rather do it?

See some of these frames are just loaded with capped drones. I think it's asking a lot to have the bees clean all that up. What do you guys think?

LazyBkpr · « **Reply #79 on:** June 11, 2015, 10:53:23 pm »

Oh heck ya, I would get those in the freezer or sprayed with BT.