catching swarms

[lazy shooter]

Swarms are not due until late March or April in my area, but I am curious about swarm traps.  There are several beekeepers on this forum that use varied methods and traps to catch swarms.  So my question is:  Could I simply use an eight frame hive box, complete with bottom board, medium hive box, inner cover and telescoping cover?  I have a couple of places where I could set a trap and hopefully trap bees into a hive that could be left in place.  There is a large hive of bees in a tree about 50 yards behind my backyard fence, and they are on my property.  Also, my neighbor has three bee trees on a fence row that is about one-half  mile from my house.  I could set up eight frames hives so that they would be close to water and close to bee trees and good forage.  I have a lot of old comb and some uncleaned, harvested honey frames in my freezer.  It's a simple and LAZY way for me to increase my bee herd if it works. 

definition of a "bee tree" from the thoughts of LS:  A bee tree is a tree that houses a colony of honey bees.

Your thoughts please!

[iddee]

I would use a deep or two mediums. Small boxes catch small swarms. Large boxes catch large swarms, and sometimes small ones. Bait with old frames of comb and maybe some lemongrass oil.  ""not much" Eight frame hive, eight frames. NO EMPTY SPACE.

[apisbees]

I think the use of swarm traps allows for easier hanging in the tree to get them set at a more attractive height. keeping them off the ground also keeps the mice from invading but other than being harder to hang what Iddee said. Remember that where ever you place them Your going to have to remove them with bees in them and the could be much heavier and you do not want them coming apart.

[lazy shooter]

More attractive height, now that's a good point.
Bigger swarms with bigger trap, now that's another good point.

It now looks like a deep attached to a tree.

Thanks for the replies.

[Barbarian]

I am a little confused as to whether to use a standard brood box filled with frames or the same with just a couple of frames.

Tom Seeley's experiments regarding box size, height and entrance size parameters attracted swarms with empty boxes. His later work mentioned that the scout bees checked the interior size of the box. I have often wondered how the scouts check the interior size of a box filled with frames of foundation.

[iddee]

If there is even one frame missing, you will do a cutout in that area. They will fill all empty space before using the frames. If you don't mind cutouts, a box with one or two frames  "may" give you a bit better chance.

In my opinion, a box of about 30 liters, full of drawn comb, treated with BT, 3 to 5 meters high, is the best overall choice.

[Perry]

I think when Dr. Seeley did his experiments he used empty cavities exclusively, more to level the playing field as to potential homes. He noted that bees would fly from side to side to "measure" distance to evaluate cavity size. Comb would clearly hamper that. Bees however, are very energy efficient and would  (I believe) move anything with comb in it to the "front of the line" in regards to potential new housing.

[brooksbeefarm]

I don't use anything but 10 frame deeps for swarm traps anymore. I did use 5 frame deep nuc's, but had big swarms come to them and leave the next day or two. Like iddee said. Jack