Ive found that I can reduce swarming most of the time by giving them enough room so I don't routinely manage against the swarming instinct. When I find cells, I pull that frame (s) and start a new hive (s). I also tend to replace my queens each year so most are young ones that are less likely to swarm. I did listen to most of the video and have no reason to believe it wouldn't work. I did take exception to one comment the presenter said that isn't quite right--specifically that what he was doing was just like what the bees would do in nature, only at a time of your choosing. By shaking the bees on the sheet, only the old bees would fly back to the original hive location. The queen would be left with mostly flightless nurse bees and they represent the swarm he created. When bees swarm, it works the other way. Flightless nurse bees don't go with the queen; they stay in their original location and don't have to change jobs--they just keep on being nurse bees. With this method, some of the field bees have to change vocations and become nurse bees once again. I'm sure it would work because bees are very adaptable but the method doesn't truly replicate the natural process.
An alternate way that I frequently use is to find the queen and leave her in the original box and location along with enough bees to tend the brood on that frame. Then provide some drawn comb next to the brood, some pollen and honey frames, etc. The remaining frames of brood, food and bees can be arranged in new boxes that you use to establish new hives. Once you have them set up, you can move the new start(s) a short distance away (like in the video) or you can stack them on the original hive above an excluder. I prefer to leave them on the original hive with an excluder. If you move them, the old bees will fly home so your new starts will have only young bees, brood and food--I've used this method when I had some Africanized stock because the older bees tended to kill the new queen. They will be redistributed by late afternoon if you separate them early that day. Take a peak in the new splits in the evening and if they don't contain enough bees, put them back on the original hive and use an excluder to keep the queen out of the new split. If they have enough bees, they can be moved to a distant location and requeened. The next morning, take the splits and move them past the flight distance of the bees and give them a new queen. The old bees that are smarmy then have very little brood, lots of laying space, their laying queen and an ample field force. Your split should have plenty of bees, lots of brood but a break in brood production until your new queen reports for duty and starts laying.
Always more than one way to skin a cat but this one has worked well for me and it helps keep a diversity of age classes in the hive during the transition period. It's also quick because you don't need to shake the frames and you can move frames very quickly once you know where the queen is located. I can usually find her pretty quick but you could use an excluder a few days prior so you know which box she's in and then just set up as before but shake all the bees in the bottom box below the excluder so you don't wind up with the queen in the wrong place. Should achieve the same result for you with less work. In my case, I'd want to go back in a couple of weeks and replace the old queen if warranted. Heck, I'm bad about replacing them anyway--cheap insurance I guess.
The main thing is to have fun and learn a little along the way.
